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crankshaft balancer removal

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  • #1

    crankshaft balancer removal

    I am having a hard time getting the crankshaft balancer off so I can get to the optispark. I have the 3 outer bolts removed and the center bolt also. In my research it sounds like the center bolt should not be removed. Either way with the 3 bolts off I can't get the pulley off the hub. What is the trick?
    Also how important is it for this whole thing to be TDC before removal?
    96 Trans Am WS6 M6, K&N Filter, BBK Headers, Spec Stage II clutch, 180 Thermostat, MadZ28 tune... Best 1/4 13.76@103.7
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  • #2
    You may need a puller to remove the pulley. The hub does not need to come off and the crank bolt should stay in. That's more work than you need to do.

    The pulley arrow and hub should be at 12 o'clock. It only needs to be like this to allow clearance for the opti to slide past the hub.

    Just noticed you had a 1996. Your pulley will not be like the one in the picture. Yours should have 3 threaded holes where you can use a normal balancer puller to get the pulley off. See explanation in this diagram.
    Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

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    • #3
      Sounds like I will be getting a puller. Just thought it could be done without it.
      Thanks for the help.
      96 Trans Am WS6 M6, K&N Filter, BBK Headers, Spec Stage II clutch, 180 Thermostat, MadZ28 tune... Best 1/4 13.76@103.7

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Ryan96WS6
        Sounds like I will be getting a puller. Just thought it could be done without it.
        Thanks for the help.
        It can, if it wants to come off. You can try carefully tapping around on the backside, but don't hit on the outside of the pulley-you will ruin it. Tap on the "spokes".
        Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

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        • #5
          The pulley is probably the way to go then. I have already tapped or more on the whole thing. There isn't a lot of space to hit it very hard so hopefully I didn't ruin it already.
          96 Trans Am WS6 M6, K&N Filter, BBK Headers, Spec Stage II clutch, 180 Thermostat, MadZ28 tune... Best 1/4 13.76@103.7

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          • #6
            Its only rust that is holding it on. 24 hours soaked with PB Blaster may help. I took mine off when the car was still new, and it fell right off after the 3rd bolt came out. But after 12 years of rust buildup, the puller may be the best.

            Note also that the three "spokes" of the pulley are not evenly spaced, so the damper will go back on the hub only one way.
            Fred

            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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            • #7
              Good to know about the spokes. That will help the reinstall when I get there.
              96 Trans Am WS6 M6, K&N Filter, BBK Headers, Spec Stage II clutch, 180 Thermostat, MadZ28 tune... Best 1/4 13.76@103.7

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              • #8
                i got a puller from kragen for bout $20. I used PB Power B'laster and soaked it for two hours, gently tapped it, soaked it another 30 mins and it came off smooth as buttah.
                **also it helps to have the car in gear so it does not move while torquing the bolts off.
                -Ryan-


                1997 Pontiac Firerbird Formula LT1/T56
                2006 Pontiac G6 GTP, 3.9L V6, 6-spd

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                • #9
                  It's off, got a loaner puller from autozone.
                  96 Trans Am WS6 M6, K&N Filter, BBK Headers, Spec Stage II clutch, 180 Thermostat, MadZ28 tune... Best 1/4 13.76@103.7

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