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First Mod advice ? ? ?

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  • First Mod advice ? ? ?

    Well first of all the car is a

    Black 97 WS6 M6 70k miles and bone stock

    So how does this sound for a list of first mods:

    SLP strut tower brace
    SLP subframe connectors
    and Loudmouth exhaust

    and that should about spend my tax return

    Now for my questions, are the SLP suspension parts the best or are there better?

    How loud is the loudmouth exhaust, I want a healthy rumble but at the same time I don't want to wake the neighbors at five in the morning when I leave for work. Any other general advice on making first mods to my car are welcomed an appreciated
    Thanks in advance guys.....

    P.S. I'm more concerned about handling than the 1/4 mile.
    Red 97 V6 (STOCK), Black 96 Ram Air WS6 M6 5.0 PRO, skip shift delete basicaly stock, for now . . .

  • #2
    Ive had a LOT of SLP parts and they are good. The Sub frames are top notch, a bit big but they do the job. Add an intake also.


    BTW teh Loudmouth WILL be loud and the 2000 rpm drone will drive you crazy, get the Loudmouth2
    2000 Z28 SLP sub frames, J&M LCA's, KYB shocks, Waitforme tuning. Ported TB & intake 35/22 swaybars, Firehawk tires

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    • #3
      Originally posted by msfyter
      Ive had a LOT of SLP parts and they are good. The Sub frames are top notch, a bit big but they do the job. Add an intake also.


      BTW the Loudmouth WILL be loud and the 2000 rpm drone will drive you crazy, get the Loudmouth2

      +++++++1 on the CAI, it should show you reasonable gains paired with the exhaust. And +1 on the LMII instead of loudmouth I.

      ALSO: You may want to think about Sway bars also..
      PS lets get some PICS!!
      -Ryan-


      1997 Pontiac Firerbird Formula LT1/T56
      2006 Pontiac G6 GTP, 3.9L V6, 6-spd

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      • #4
        If you are more interested in handling than 1/4-mile, take a very good look at the parts offered by Sam Strano. Sam is an SCCA champion Auto-X driver, with a huge amount of experience in 4th Gen F-Bodys. His "packages" are carefully matched components, that will yield excellent results. He was recently featured in two issues of GM High Tech Performance magazine. He has shocks custom valved to his specifications, and your requirements. No doubt in my mind that this is the best source for handling parts:

        http://www.stranoparts.com/

        For all-out 1/4-mile applications, I've had hands-on experience with Steve Spohn of Spohn Performance... he's done most of the work on my suspension, several of them involving installation of prototype parts, to verify performance, fitup and install procedures. I saw him work his magic on a 97 SS belonging to a friend, making order-of-magnitude changes in the way the car handled while running low 8-second 1/4-miles at over 160 MPH. 1,350 HP though a 4th Gen chassis is a challenge.

        http://www.spohn.net/

        I like the SLP parts.... I have their Ram Air hood and a couple minor items, but they are not cutting edge, are not specialized in any one area, have really lost interest in the 4th Gen F-Bodys, except for the LSx engines, and are generally overpriced.

        Minor point.... the 4th Gen does not have "struts" in the front like the 3rd Gens..... it a "shock" tower brace. The value of the brace is highly disputed, probably evenly split between people who claim it does nothing, and the other 1/2 who claim they felt a difference. I have an LG Motorsports "4-point" brace, and I honestly felt it tightened up the front end noticeably. But there are some who will argue that at the extreme limits of cornering, it can produce a much more severe transition to breakaway of the front end. I have never pushed my car to those limits, and now it only goes straight ahead, 1,320-ft at a time.

        Welcome to the forum, and good luck with your car!!
        Fred

        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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        • #5
          Also look up BMRperformance.com

          Great quality and resonable prices.

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          • #6
            Welcome. I say letting everyone know ur intentions for your car. If its going to be for handling or drag. I have everything UMI and it handles damn well. The 1LE swaybar is a great inprovement to the stock bar. Match that up with a full Energy suspension bushing kit and you should be set. But keep in mind with all those bushing, Road noise will be pretty loud.

            I have the LMII abd I like it. Personally I like extremely loud and it does not do that for me. But I have an LSx engine. My brother and a buddy had the LMI on an LT1 and man was it loud. Sounded beautiful.
            Eddie
            2000 M6 Trans Am
            Tune+exhaust=344WHP

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            • #7
              Lots of good replies- I have used mostly UMI parts, and like both the quality and the customer service- top notch-

              No experience on the Loud Mouth, but I have heard it is very loud- Other stainless systems out there that I would recommend, based on budget- Magnaflow, Corsa, Borla- there is a website that you can listen to the different set ups, at www.ls1sounds.com and see how they compare-

              Sam Strano is THE MAN about making these cars handle- he probably has forgotten more than most of us ever knew-

              Get a lid, any manufacturer, and the exhaust, and you will free up a decent amount of power. These are the same engines, with the same cam and heads, that were used in the 'vettes. According to GM the difference in HP rating was due to differences in the intake and exhaust plumbing-

              Welcome to a great bunch of guys here!
              2001 Z28 A4 - 160 deg t-stat, 3.42 gears, WS6 sway bars, rear springs and shocks, UMI SFC's, Torque Arm and STB, leather Firebird seats, Borla, SLP Y-pipe and lid, ZO6 cam and springs - 332 RWHP and 346 RWTQ, not bad for 'almost stock' - work in progress
              "Black, the fastest color"

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              • #8
                First of all thank you for all the replies, and sorry I have taken so long to get back to this I'm having computer problems Anyway ....
                I think I have made a few decisions :

                I think I'm going to get bolt on sub-conectors from strano

                probably just gonna worry about improving the car overall before i go nuts on suspension parts

                What long tube headers are the best for LT1s ?? emissions is not an issue

                The guy at the local shop recommended a magna flow cat back and a Y-pipe with cats deleted .... thoughts ??

                what replacement lids are there for an LT1 car ?? i know there are tons for LS1 cars but I haven't seen any for LT1s ??

                again thanks for all the help guys
                Red 97 V6 (STOCK), Black 96 Ram Air WS6 M6 5.0 PRO, skip shift delete basicaly stock, for now . . .

                Comment


                • #9
                  No lids for LT1's. You already have the best setup, although you can improve flow through the hood, airbox and the connector from the MAF sensor to the throttle body. Pick up a Fernco 3x3 sewer pipe connector with 2 stainless band clamps for $6 at your local Lowes or Home Depot. Works great.

                  Most people without emissions considerations seem to like long tubes. They do provide more low end grunt, good for a street car. The cost and quality vary greatly, with PaceSetter on the low end for price and quality, Kooks on the high end for both. Depends on your budget. I would strongly recommend that you get cera-metallic coated headers - reduces under hood temps, reduces corrosion and stress cracking, and picks up a couple ponies by keeping the heat in the primaries and boosting scavenging.

                  If you are doing long tube headers, consider running a true dual exhaust rather than a Y-pipe and catback.

                  Might want to consider bypassing the coolant that flows through the throttle body. Quick 6HP increase at "0" cost. No downside, since "throttle body icing" is generally not a problem unless you live north of the Arctic Circle.
                  Fred

                  381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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                  • #10
                    How do U do the "free" throttle body coolant bypass? I've seen kits, but free is better. Also do Kooks offer at least decent plug acess?

                    Thank U again for all the help in making my shopping List
                    Red 97 V6 (STOCK), Black 96 Ram Air WS6 M6 5.0 PRO, skip shift delete basicaly stock, for now . . .

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