Fuel pressure safety switch for nitrous.

[blackfire93]

I'm slowly spending my extra cash on supporting mods for a NOS 5176 kit. So far i've got ford SVO 30# injectors and an MSD 6AL ignition with the wiring harness sitting in my garage. I know that i'm gonna need to get a window switch and I'll need to change my spark plugs. I was wondering if you guys knew if the 5176 kit comes with a fuel pressure safety switch? If not could you make any suggestions on which one to get? Cause i think that i remember reading somewhere that the pressure should be at 75 before it lets the nitrous flow, but all I could find are ones that go up to 70. Also if anybody sees anything missing from my supporting mods list let me know. Oh, and will the 15 lb bottle fit where the spare tire goes or does if have to be a 10 lb bottle? Thanks

[Injuneer]

The 5176 kit does not come with a fuel pressure safety switch. NOS sells a "high pressure" switch. Its adjustable and I believe it was capable of going higher than 70psi - I had one, but that was 10 years ago. The main thing you want to do is insure the nitrous slipstream to the fuel pressure regulator is boosting the pressure. Setting it at 70-75psi will be adequate.

Everyone uses the same switch, made by Hobbs, a division of Honeywell. If you want to set it at some higher pressure, you can find a Honeywell parts dealer that sells the Hobbs switches, and buy whatever you feel is needed. But you don't want to set the switch too close to the exact operating pressure, or the fuel pressure spikes will have the nitrous turning on and off erratically.

What plugs are you planning to run? What gap? NGK TR6 or an Autolite 104, gapped to 0.035" would work.

http://content.honeywell.com/sensing.../catswitch.asp

[thomas]

The 5176 kit does not come with a fuel pressure safety switch. NOS sells a "high pressure" switch. Its adjustable and I believe it was capable of going higher than 70psi - I had one, but that was 10 years ago. The main thing you want to do is insure the nitrous slipstream to the fuel pressure regulator is boosting the pressure. Setting it at 70-75psi will be adequate.

Everyone uses the same switch, made by Hobbs, a division of Honeywell. If you want to set it at some higher pressure, you can find a Honeywell parts dealer that sells the Hobbs switches, and buy whatever you feel is needed. But you don't want to set the switch too close to the exact operating pressure, or the fuel pressure spikes will have the nitrous turning on and off erratically.

What plugs are you planning to run? What gap? NGK TR6 or an Autolite 104, gapped to 0.035" would work.

http://content.honeywell.com/sensing.../catswitch.asp

sorry to hijack but fred, have you been to the track lately?

[Injuneer]

No... my car has not been physically out of the garage in about one year. I have a totally ridiculous job, that has me working at least 12 hours each weekday, and often to 2:00 or 3:00pm on Saturday. I have no time to myself. That's what happens when you get really old and jobs are hard to find, even for a licensed professional engineer.

Every once in a while I think about selling the car.

[thomas]

No... my car has not been physically out of the garage in about one year. I have a totally ridiculous job, that has me working at least 12 hours each weekday, and often to 2:00 or 3:00pm on Saturday. I have no time to myself. That's what happens when you get really old and jobs are hard to find, even for a licensed professional engineer.

Every once in a while I think about selling the car.

old???????????? haha your like 30yrs olf or somthing like that were in jersey? i go over to the binebarrens alot.

[blackfire93]

I was thinking that i would run the NGK TR6s. Most of my choice came from the fact that i hadn't heard of the autolites . Thanks for the link for the switch. The whole working 12 hours a day as an engineer is a little discouraging since i'm just about to go into my junior year of mechanical engineering this fall

[Injuneer]

You have to try and work in a field that is going to last for 40+ years, and thats the tricky part. My problem is 1) I'm at retirement age, and 2) the field I specialized in has gone dead. I was running $100 Million projects for power plants, refineries, chem plants and pharmaceutical plants. No one builds those any more. A lot of the "engineering" for what does happen is done offshore in countries like the Philipines, Mexico, China, etc for low $$$$.

Now I estimate and run projects costing less than $1 Million for a local paving company, and I count myself lucky to have that job. The first 40 years were great.... big $$$, lots of international travel and work assignments, good working hours, nice office, etc.

[blackfire93]

Yeah, I just don't want to have a job where i sit around in a cubical all day doing calculations and staring at a computer screen. I guess that Boeing recruits quite a few engineers from MSU Bozeman where i go to school. Seems like their probably going to be around for a while. But then, i dunno if i really want to do what everybody else is doing from Bozeman.