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Drivers Side Window Loose

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  • Drivers Side Window Loose

    Hey guys,

    I recently replaced my window motor on the drivers side and the window was working great. All of a sudden I noticed that I had to guide the window into place while closing it in order for it to close properly. If I didn't guide it, it would just get jammed on the door panel because it would move a weird way. I also noticed that I could slide the window itself forwards (towards the front of the car) and backwards quite a bit. Today I tried to close it and it just seems to be getting jammed up and now my window won't go past half way.

    Anyways, I took my door panel off and you can move the glass (and the whole track it is connected to). It seems as though the whole outside "scissor assembly" (I don't know what this is called) just bends when you move the window. Any idea on how to fix this? It is so hard to see inside the door that I cannot figure out how to fix this. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you!

    Sean
    1996 Trans Am M6 (T-Tops)
    Mods:
    "Race Ready" Rebuilt T56
    Pro 5.0 Shifter
    Crane 1.5rrs
    Comp high tech pushrods
    Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY
    SLP Loudmouth II
    SLP Cold air intake
    PCMforLess Tune + 160 thermostat
    UMI adjustable panhard
    UMI LCAs and relocation brackets

  • #2
    I couple years ago d-side window started getting floppy, had to weld a washer on to the track where one of the pin things are, its alittle out of aligment now but works fine. If the cars was in better shape I probly woulda fixed it right.

    1994 Firebird Formula 138,000 Completly Stock

    1995 Caprice 9c1 61,000
    2001 Intrigue GL

    Comment


    • #3
      Item 68 in this list will show you the workings of the regulator. Maybe that will help you determine what might be wrong.
      There is also a window adjustment guide in my list of "How To's".
      Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

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      • #4
        I tried adjusting the window a bit today, and I just noticed that the entire window is not even connected to the track that guides it (sorry I dont know what to call anything). It looks like the sheet metal cracked on the bottom of the window, and the slider that holds the window to the track pulled out. Now my problem....how the heck do you fix this?! All the metal is still intact, but i'm not sure how to get the "slider" back in if I weld the sheet metal back together. I'm suppose to be driving down to Maryland Thursday and I really need to figure out how to fix this... Thanks for the comments so far!
        1996 Trans Am M6 (T-Tops)
        Mods:
        "Race Ready" Rebuilt T56
        Pro 5.0 Shifter
        Crane 1.5rrs
        Comp high tech pushrods
        Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY
        SLP Loudmouth II
        SLP Cold air intake
        PCMforLess Tune + 160 thermostat
        UMI adjustable panhard
        UMI LCAs and relocation brackets

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by SeanC
          I tried adjusting the window a bit today, and I just noticed that the entire window is not even connected to the track that guides it (sorry I dont know what to call anything). It looks like the sheet metal cracked on the bottom of the window, and the slider that holds the window to the track pulled out. Now my problem....how the heck do you fix this?! All the metal is still intact, but i'm not sure how to get the "slider" back in if I weld the sheet metal back together. I'm suppose to be driving down to Maryland Thursday and I really need to figure out how to fix this... Thanks for the comments so far!
          The #3 guide pin has broken free from the main window rail. You will have to either replace the window rail with one that has a good guide on it, or have the guide pin tack welded back onto the rail. Too much heat will melt it.

          Tracy
          2002 C5 M6 Convertible
          1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
          Current Mods:
          SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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