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Baro Sensor error code

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  • Baro Sensor error code

    Hey guys,

    On my way home today my dreaded SES light came on. When I got home I hooked up my scanner and I'm getting:

    P0107
    Manifold Absolute Pressure/BARO sensor low input

    To be honest with you, I have never even heard of this sensor. Where is it located? Do you think it just needs to be replaced?

    Thank you!
    1996 Trans Am M6 (T-Tops)
    Mods:
    "Race Ready" Rebuilt T56
    Pro 5.0 Shifter
    Crane 1.5rrs
    Comp high tech pushrods
    Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY
    SLP Loudmouth II
    SLP Cold air intake
    PCMforLess Tune + 160 thermostat
    UMI adjustable panhard
    UMI LCAs and relocation brackets

  • #2
    That would be the MAP sensor. Check the connector first.
    Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

    Comment


    • #3
      Its one of the most critical sensors in the engine. It represents "engine load", and is used as one axis of the spark timing tables (RPM is the other axis), and along with RPM to define the long term fuel correction (BLM) storage cell boundaries. If you scan the engine, you can calculate engine vacuum by subtracting MAP from the barometer reading. The 93's use it to calculate the "density" portion of the speed-density air/fuel control system, and even the 94+ "mass air" cars use it when speed-density fueling is required to back up a faulty MAF sensor.

      As Rob mentioned, check the green harness connector first. They dry out and start to crumble providing poor contact and erratic sensor readings. Jiggle the wires while reding the voltage between the signal wire and the ground wire. MAP at idle will typically not go below 30 kPa (9.5 "Hg).
      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

      Comment


      • #4
        It looks like the connector is a bit corroded...Does GM just sell the green connector and then you can just solder it in?

        I'm suppose to be going to a car show tomorrow with my car. Should I not drive the car at all with this sensor not working right? It looks like at idle I'm getting anywhere from 9.0 to 9.5 Hg.
        1996 Trans Am M6 (T-Tops)
        Mods:
        "Race Ready" Rebuilt T56
        Pro 5.0 Shifter
        Crane 1.5rrs
        Comp high tech pushrods
        Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY
        SLP Loudmouth II
        SLP Cold air intake
        PCMforLess Tune + 160 thermostat
        UMI adjustable panhard
        UMI LCAs and relocation brackets

        Comment


        • #5
          Most connectors you can get as a pigtail from GM ie a connector with 12" of wire and a crimp connector. Shoebox has a list of pigtails on his site. I haven't looked to see if that one is there or not.

          What I would do first is try cleaning the connector before you start cutting the factory harness. You can do it with baking soda and water or you can buy a can of battery terminal cleaner and spray it in the connector. Then put some dielectric grease on it and plug it back in.
          2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

          1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

          A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

          Comment


          • #6
            Of coarse he does.
            http://shbox.com/1/Parts.htm
            AC-Delco p/n---Usage---------------------GM p/n
            PT123----------1993-1997 MAP sensor-----12085502
            2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

            1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

            A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

            Comment


            • #7
              Check out these guys, reasonable prices.
              http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn..._pigtails.aspx
              Tracy, 97 Formula, pretty much stock.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by SeanC
                It looks like the connector is a bit corroded...Does GM just sell the green connector and then you can just solder it in?

                I'm suppose to be going to a car show tomorrow with my car. Should I not drive the car at all with this sensor not working right? It looks like at idle I'm getting anywhere from 9.0 to 9.5 Hg.
                No problem with those numbers at idle. The code sets when MAP drops to about 10kPa or about 3"Hg. You've got in intermittent wiring problem.
                Fred

                381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                Comment


                • #9
                  A word of caution here:

                  In my car, the green connector had broken the clip, so the connector came loose frequently. The GM dealer mechanic, took off each one of the 4 wires (with a tiny plane screwdriver)from the green connector and re installed in a brand new green connector.
                  He did not recommend me to cut & weld the wires because it may alter the electric signals via ohms? volts? Don't remember. Would be right this assumption?

                  regards
                  dochidalgo
                  97 A4 Pontiac Firebird Trans am with $everal mod$

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    A well-made splice, soldered and covered with heat-shrink insulation, will not cause problems.
                    Fred

                    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      So I replaced the corroded wiring harness connector because I couldn't get it to work after cleaning it. Started it up and it was running fine, no SES light. I drove down to Maryland and back, the car ran great and I had no problems. I get into my home town coming back from my trip and my SES light comes on AGAIN!!! I hooked up my scanner and sure enough I was getting the same code. My scanner is reading a constant 3.2"Hg at all speeds (I know its suppose to be quite a bit higher). Do you think the sensor itself is bad? I really need to get my car running right because I really don't have a car right now...I am going to have to drive it a little but im trying to avoid driving it as much as possible. What do you guys think?
                      1996 Trans Am M6 (T-Tops)
                      Mods:
                      "Race Ready" Rebuilt T56
                      Pro 5.0 Shifter
                      Crane 1.5rrs
                      Comp high tech pushrods
                      Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY
                      SLP Loudmouth II
                      SLP Cold air intake
                      PCMforLess Tune + 160 thermostat
                      UMI adjustable panhard
                      UMI LCAs and relocation brackets

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I just erased the code....the live reading is now coming back normal. Its reading 9.4"Hg at idle. I have no idea why it wasn't reading right before. Could the sensor just be going bad?
                        1996 Trans Am M6 (T-Tops)
                        Mods:
                        "Race Ready" Rebuilt T56
                        Pro 5.0 Shifter
                        Crane 1.5rrs
                        Comp high tech pushrods
                        Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY
                        SLP Loudmouth II
                        SLP Cold air intake
                        PCMforLess Tune + 160 thermostat
                        UMI adjustable panhard
                        UMI LCAs and relocation brackets

                        Comment

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