Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Time for more exhaust upgrades

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Time for more exhaust upgrades

    Well, after 10 years of solid use, it's time to say goodbye to my "ultra-rare" LT4 SS manifolds. Not that I don't like the sleeper look or the power gains I saw from using them, but I can't deal with having to be double-jointed to access plugs, wires, and bolts.

    I'm getting ready to install AS&M/RK Sports Jet-Hot Coated Mid-length headers, complete with 1.75" primaries into full 2.5" collectors. I'm getting rid of the two cat design design too and just using a single high flow cat (I hope NJ doesn't give me a problem).


    Anyway, While in there, I'm going to be replacing a few items for good measure:
    * going to go with OTVC spark plug wires and looms. Thunder Racing has a nice package complete with everything I need. The Taylors on there now have less than 15K on them, but I'm not interested in trying to re-route them with the new setup.
    * will be replacing NGK-TR55 plugs with same. Even though these plugs only have 15K on them too, why not. With the exhaust out of the way, it's easy enough to do.
    * all cooling and heater lines. After looking long and hard, other than the silly blue cover, I can't find fault with using the Goodyear Hi-Miler kit. It's cheap, complete (except for one hose) and a definite upgrade over rubber OEM hoses.
    * will replace cap and rotor on Optispark. I currently have a fully functioning unit, with no obvious problems. As my car has only 43K on her, rather than replace the whole thing, I though the cap and rotor would be sufficient.


    Can you think of anything else I should do while I'm in there? I'm going to look at the waterpump weep hole. I think it's fine, but can't tell yet until I have some room to work. Also, I think my front crank seal is leaking. If it is, I'm going to pop that out while I have the Optispark off and button her up. I have a slight oil leak from the front of the engine, but only a drop or two every now and then, so I'm not going to tear anything apart to find it. Might be the timing cover...who knows. Not worth the aggravation, since I only put 1K on the car a year anyway.


    What do you think? Forgetting anything important?
    Al 96 Ram Air T/A
    Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

  • #2
    I would get:

    * Taylor firesleeves. They are a woven fireproof cover that you slip over the spark plug boots. It really helps the plug wires live a long life.

    * Stage 8 or breslin locking header bolts. You don't want anything loosening up as you put on the miles.

    * Percy's dead-soft header gaskets. Softer aluminum that crushes to form a tight, burn proof seal. I think they are the best at conforming around irregular surfaces, to me the best out there and worth it.

    * sheets of self adhesive thermal shielding. Available at Jegs, I would use this stuff liberally around the heater box, firewall, lines and hoses. Everything that you can do to insulate the surrounding area to the headers will payoff by protecting the componants from the extra heat. After all, headers are larger and contain a whole lot more tubing than an exhaust manifold. that means much more surface area to radiate to the surrounding componants.

    Comment


    • #3
      You think heat is going to be that much of an issue? I was hoping that being ceramic coated and removing the cat that was tucked up in the engine compartment would drastically lower underhood temps.
      Al 96 Ram Air T/A
      Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

      Comment


      • #4
        Joe, I think was just saying if it was him Thats what he would do. My brother Ran Shorties and a RandomTech Y-Pipe with their high-flow cats (On a 1996 Z28). He got the headers Jet-Hot coated. Thats about it, and never ran into issues with heat or anything.
        Eddie
        2000 M6 Trans Am
        Tune+exhaust=344WHP

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Al 96 Ram Air T/A
          You think heat is going to be that much of an issue? I was hoping that being ceramic coated and removing the cat that was tucked up in the engine compartment would drastically lower underhood temps.
          Yes and no. The overall temperature can be lower, but if a portion of the header whetehr ceramic coated or not is close to another part, that part is gonna get hot. you'll just have to check the shape of the headers and how the entire assembly fits in the engine compartment. A log type manifold and stock up pipes really take up minimal space. headers using 4 primaries are going to eat up more space. They may get close in places where it wasn't close before..... that's what you'll want to eyeball and take corrective measures if necessary.

          With my Shorties, I had to wrap the heater box as now the headers were pretty darned close at one point. SLP even provided a heat shield with the original kit. I bought a bunch of extra shielding from Jegs and wrapped A/C lines, heater core hoses, shielded the EGR. While I probably didn't need to go that crazy with it, I also never experienced any hose leaks or heat fatigued wiring.

          Comment


          • #6
            OK...I'll definitely keep that in mind Joe.


            So, how's the rest of the shopping list looking?
            Al 96 Ram Air T/A
            Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

            Comment


            • #7
              If Al uses the single cat 95 and earlier type headers, then heat isnt the headache that it is with the goofy 96-97 dual cat headers that are all tucked up into the engine compartment to make room for the cats. Coated is the only way to go, though, and you may beed to rerout or wrap some of the wires on the passenger side.

              Comment


              • #8
                I have no heat problems with my coated AS&M single-cat headers. Nothing has melted yet.

                The dual-cat AS&M's were a disaster. A buddy of mine with a 97 30th Z28 had them for about 6 months, and even after completely wallpapering the engine compartment with foil faced/heat shield insulation, things were still melting. He yanked them out and called a friend of his at SLP for a set of the S/S LT4 manifolds. That's why AS&M no longer sells the dual-cat headers.

                Second vote for the Taylor firesleeves.

                My preference on wires is the MSD 8.5's.

                On the NGK plugs, are you going to be using the Iridiums? I have seen a lot of people say they were using them, and have not seen anyone post any problems so far.
                Fred

                381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks Fred...good info. I'm using the single cat version, so everything should be fine.

                  I'm probably not going with the Iridium NGK's. I can't see them being worth the $50 . The standard NGK plugs are more than adequate in my opinion. As far as I can see, Iridium is the new platinum...lasts longer than copper plugs, but doesn't really do anything for making power. Since I only put 1,000 miles a year on my car anyway, the plugs will never be an issue.

                  Heck, I'm probably going to try an sell the NGK's and wires that are on there now, as they have less than 15K on them. Might be able to get a few dollars...

                  I'm changing out the plugs ...well, just because. While everything is out, why not. The wires have to go as I'm going with OTVC. For my application, MSD is probably overkill. I've used Taylor for years. Maybe not the "best" but never let me down. And at half the price, it's the ticket. This economy is not leaving much at the end of the day to waste on a few potential hp.
                  Al 96 Ram Air T/A
                  Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X