Some guy near my house is selling the front pair of Shocks. They have 18k on them, and is asking $40 for both. We can meet so i dont have to pay for shipping. You guys think its worth it? Im sure they will be better than the Bridgestone POS shocks i have now.
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De-Carbon Struts? Value?
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On a 4th gen they are actually shocks, but yeah, SLP used to sell take-offs for $25 each that had virtually no miles on them.Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com
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DeCarbon shocks WERE the stock ones, unless you go and SLP upgrade that included the Bilstein shocks or go a 'real' 1LE that came with, during certain years, Koni shocks-
I noticed that the Pontiac shocks, at least of the '96 WS6 I raided for many parts, were a larger diameter than the the Z28 shocks I had, and took the rear springs and shocks, as well as the sway bar and panhard bar- I wished I had time and tools to do the front, but didn't-
If they are good, yeah, they are worth a few bucks-2001 Z28 A4 - 160 deg t-stat, 3.42 gears, WS6 sway bars, rear springs and shocks, UMI SFC's, Torque Arm and STB, leather Firebird seats, Borla, SLP Y-pipe and lid, ZO6 cam and springs - 332 RWHP and 346 RWTQ, not bad for 'almost stock' - work in progress
"Black, the fastest color"
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If you are going to go through the trouble of doing the front struts, you should get something decent. There's a pretty good chance the top mounts will need replacing once you get in there, and you should get an alignment afterwards. It's not like on the back where it's relatively painless job without much other things to worry about.
Factory DeCarbon's don't last much over 30k miles, if even that. By that time they are no longer really damping as they should be. Our cars are so stiffly sprung you don't really notice it unless you know what it is supposed to feel like when the dampers are good, so it is easy to ignore.
So, I don't recommend you buy them. Chances are if you have replacements on your car, they are probably better than 20k mile Decs.
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Originally posted by toddwirgesIf you are going to go through the trouble of doing the front struts, you should get something decent. There's a pretty good chance the top mounts will need replacing once you get in there, and you should get an alignment afterwards. It's not like on the back where it's relatively painless job without much other things to worry about.
Factory DeCarbon's don't last much over 30k miles, if even that. By that time they are no longer really damping as they should be. Our cars are so stiffly sprung you don't really notice it unless you know what it is supposed to feel like when the dampers are good, so it is easy to ignore.
So, I don't recommend you buy them. Chances are if you have replacements on your car, they are probably better than 20k mile Decs.
I noticed the difference. Feels smoother and everything. Why would I have to get an Alignment if I change the Shocks? The Lower control arm is not moved and the Upper control are has no adjustment. I have Over 70K miles on my car and the top mount does not need any replacing .
I think you are underestimating the life span for parts on these cars.Eddie
2000 M6 Trans Am
Tune+exhaust=344WHP
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The upper mount usually rusts real bad. Water lays on top of the shock and corrodes everything up there, including the shock bolt. As for the shocks...very few companies, including GM, design suspension parts to feel like new after 30 - 50K. Why? Few people keep there cars that long. Why spend money on building a top notch shock if people ditch there cars soon after 50K. I pulled my WS6 shocks after nearly 40K and they were pretty well used up. It only became evident after I put the Konis on though.
I had to strip and paint all of my suspension parts with Rustoleum black. Hopefully, they'll last another 20 years now that they are sealed they way they should have been from the factory. Oh yeah...make sure you seal the upper mount to the body of the car with silicon. Otherwise, water will get in there and corrode everything all over again. The correct way would have to design a good drain for these things. However, the design does not allow water to get out once it gets in.Al 96 Ram Air T/A
Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio
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Yeah When I did the entire ES Bushing kit and was installing the upper A-Arm bushings I paintes the brackets. Then I went ahead and lubricated the upper bolt and stud, with hopes of preventing the rust on the upper bolt some. I was thinking about sealing it but I have a feeling im going to take off the shocks maybe in about a year when I can afford some KYB or maybe Koni's.Eddie
2000 M6 Trans Am
Tune+exhaust=344WHP
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Originally posted by ConEliteIts not very hard to charge the front Shocks. I did get them for $35 and slapped them on. If I try I can do it in less than 30minutes.My DD
2015 Lexus GS350 FSport
My toy
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Yeah I Had both Shocks with Springs off the car in 20 miutes. The thing that takes a little time is compress the springs b/c I use a Manual Compressor. Then Slapped them back in, Cleaned my Rotors and Inspected my brakes and had the car back on the ground in less than an hour.
Thanks to who ever invented Air tools! My garage is equal to an Auto Shop. Very will Stocked working area including Parts washer, Two 6' tall Tool boxes, 5' tall compressor and much more. (Dad was a mechanic for 30+ years)Eddie
2000 M6 Trans Am
Tune+exhaust=344WHP
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Originally posted by zaino@cox.netMine seem just like new after alot more than 30k. What exactly goes south on them at or around 30k?
Increased longevity is actually one of the great benefits of going to an aftermarket strut.
It's not obvious on an f-body because the front springs are so stiff. It's not like on a regular passenger car where worn dampers result in the car bouncing all over the place. It may or may not bother you, but because of the labor involved and the potential for problems at the top mounts, most people wouldn't recommend swapping on used DeCarbons as a replacement.
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