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  • Free Upgrades??

    so im running a set of 275-40-17 riken raptor ZRs on the back and im trying to do anything to hook up on the track and on the street. does anyone have any suggestions for hooking up. i remember someone said unhook the front SB for the track but does anyone else have any problems cause right now my car looks like this >>>>>>>>
    94 V6 A4~~LT1 M6~~383 M6 13.1 @ 109 with a 2.1 60' Sold/Stripped
    94 Z28 383 A4 Sold
    75 Chevy~~~~ SOLD
    1992 Convertable RS 305/700r4 <<<Just a Beater
    GOT PSi?
    Good Cause Your Gonna Need It!!!

  • #2
    Originally posted by 1slo_camaro
    so im running a set of 275-40-17 riken raptor ZRs on the back and im trying to do anything to hook up on the track and on the street. does anyone have any suggestions for hooking up. i remember someone said unhook the front SB for the track but does anyone else have any problems cause right now my car looks like this >>>>>>>>
    If you want to hook, get drag radials. Those tires you have are hard and will never hook well. They are a higher mileage tire and not a mximum performance tire.

    And yes, unhooking the front sway bar for dragstrip use will allow a better weight transfer on launch. Just hook it back up for the ride home.

    Comment


    • #3
      You might try airing the rear tires down a little, but, as Joe said they are a hard compound-
      Do you do a burn-out to heat them?
      2001 Z28 A4 - 160 deg t-stat, 3.42 gears, WS6 sway bars, rear springs and shocks, UMI SFC's, Torque Arm and STB, leather Firebird seats, Borla, SLP Y-pipe and lid, ZO6 cam and springs - 332 RWHP and 346 RWTQ, not bad for 'almost stock' - work in progress
      "Black, the fastest color"

      Comment


      • #4
        yea i figured i would skip the water pit and just give them a quick little 3-5 second burn. im looking to make the best of what i got considering i have no cash cause i have to find a new place to live
        94 V6 A4~~LT1 M6~~383 M6 13.1 @ 109 with a 2.1 60' Sold/Stripped
        94 Z28 383 A4 Sold
        75 Chevy~~~~ SOLD
        1992 Convertable RS 305/700r4 <<<Just a Beater
        GOT PSi?
        Good Cause Your Gonna Need It!!!

        Comment


        • #5
          Unhook the front Sway-bar. Take out the Seats and add a 50LB sandbag in the rear!

          I would say air down the tires to aboput 22-25 PSI. Try to run just a little more fuel than usual. A little extra weight over the rear wheels might help. Other than that there is not to much more you can do for free to help up hook on those tires.

          You should get at the least some Relocation brackets. They are cheap and make a difference.
          Eddie
          2000 M6 Trans Am
          Tune+exhaust=344WHP

          Comment


          • #6
            ok thanks. well honestly when i went to the track i had 100Lbs in the back on a 1/4 tank off race fuel and it hooked pretty decent on not soo good tires. so if i go to the track im defintaly gonna drop the bags back in lol. but my seats are already out
            94 V6 A4~~LT1 M6~~383 M6 13.1 @ 109 with a 2.1 60' Sold/Stripped
            94 Z28 383 A4 Sold
            75 Chevy~~~~ SOLD
            1992 Convertable RS 305/700r4 <<<Just a Beater
            GOT PSi?
            Good Cause Your Gonna Need It!!!

            Comment


            • #7
              Throwing 50-100# of extra weight in the back is costing you more than 1/10th. 3-5 second burnout is not a "quick little"..... I don't do any more than 5 seconds with full slicks. Heating street tires is non-productive. Just a quick dry hop to get the dirt off is usually all you need. Yes, stay out of the water box with street tires, even if its just as a courtesy to other racers. With "treaded" tires" you are dragging water out to the starting line.

              The LCA relocation brackets provided the best traction increase that I ever noticed, but unfortunately they are not free. Experiment with tire pressure. Experiment with RPM vs slipping the clutch on the launch. The M6's are hard to launch in my experience.
              Fred

              381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

              Comment


              • #8
                In your signature you note that it "needs a rear"... as i recall you had the LT1 put into your V6 camaro, right?
                >Does the car now have Posi? That would make the car launch straight-er instead of

                Again, not exactly free.....
                -Ryan-


                1997 Pontiac Firerbird Formula LT1/T56
                2006 Pontiac G6 GTP, 3.9L V6, 6-spd

                Comment


                • #9
                  Fred thanks for the pointers. I always threw some weight in the back over the rear just for some pressure on it but heck if it doesnt do that much help then what the hey might as well take it out lol.


                  RAF7789- yes it still have the V6 open rear. so that will help me out soooooooooooooo much if i can get a posi with some 410z in it im hopin to do that very soon.
                  94 V6 A4~~LT1 M6~~383 M6 13.1 @ 109 with a 2.1 60' Sold/Stripped
                  94 Z28 383 A4 Sold
                  75 Chevy~~~~ SOLD
                  1992 Convertable RS 305/700r4 <<<Just a Beater
                  GOT PSi?
                  Good Cause Your Gonna Need It!!!

                  Comment

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