LT1 Windage Tray Options????

[AmericanZ28]

Hi guys! It's been a while since I've posted. Alot has happened in the past year, and the time is flying by faster than ever. After buying a house, and getting engaged, Im turning my attention back to getting my Z all back together. I have been lurking around, and see that most of the crowd is still here.

Moving along, I'm in the process of assembling my 383 LT1 back together, and was wondering if I could leave the stock windage tray off of the engine. The ARP main studs that I have aren't long enough to keep the tray from clearing the rotating assembly. Does ARP make a set for the LT1? I know it's supposed to prevent OIL splash, but is that really going to hurt the HP output? I saw a Mororso oil Pan for the LT1 ($270) that appears to have the Tray built in, but Im trying to keep costs down. What are my options??

[Injuneer]

You definitely need the windage tray. Oil on the crank will reduce HP, but that's only the tip of the iceberg. The crank will whip the oil into a froth, and you'll be circulating air bubbles with the oil.... not too good for the bearings.

Stock pan, blueprinted stock pump with a high pressure spring and a tack-welded pickup, and an 80psi spring have proven adequate for 1,000+HP LT1 engines, turning up to 8,000rpm. I run that setup, and while its only making 800HP, and has a 7,200rpm redline, its working fine.

Pump modification guidelines:

http://www.gofastnews.com/board/tech...ower-mods.html

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

I used the Milodon Diamond Stripper windage tray. I had to use some of the milodon studs and shorten the end of them slightly for clearance with my stock pan. I also modified it due to the main caps that were used because the machine used SBC caps on there and not the ones for 86 and later. You can see I did a scraper and also a baffle too. I don't have any problems with oiling but would love to know how well it all really works.

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