02 t/a rear end questions

[axgrndr]

my left rear axle bearing went out. in the process of tearing it apart i found out i have what looks like a torsen t-1 series carrier (didnt exaclty match the auburn type unit shown in the haynes repair book..lol). i have a 02 t/a non-ws6 w/ 6sp manual. tcs and abs. here's my questions:

1. ive been unable to find any info on torque values for the little bolt on the carrier that you take out to pull the axles as well as values for rear diff cover bolts. anyone know what they are?

2. from what ive read torsens dont need limited slip additive in the oil. yet every parts store and shop ive talk to says my car needs it. does it need it or not? if so how much?

3. the carrier doesnt have a reticulator ring. it does have the rings out at the wheels. i maybe misinformed but i thought if tcs was installed theres suppose to be a ring on the carrier. does the lack of a ring on the carrier have any factor on getting a correct replacement axle? (hopefully wont need axle but still in work on taking it apart).

4. what is the appropriate weight oil for this axle/carrier combo in texas and how often is a good change interval?

my first time tackling a rear axle problem. so looking for some help and education from more expirenced folks. thanks in advance- ron

[Jeff_in_Atl]

2. from what ive read torsens dont need limited slip additive in the oil. yet every parts store and shop ive talk to says my car needs it. does it need it or not? if so how much?

I am going to tackle this one.
No the Torsen does not require limited slip additive. I doubt you will ever find someone in a parts store that know what a Torsen carrier is. Several years ago GM put out a TSB because of complaints about a noisy rear end to put in limited slip additive. This was in my opinion a feel good gesture on GMs part to make owners feel better. It is normal for them to be noisy. I put it in mine and didn't notice any difference. Urathane bushings in the lower control arm and pan hard rod will make the noise louder too.

[Joe 1320]

The 4 channel abs has the sensors pushed out to the wheels, where a 3 channel without traction control puts the sensor on top of the pumpkin.

[MN6WS6]

1> I don't know the correct torque specs because I don't think you could technically torque that little bolt that you are talking about. It's kind of one of those "by feel" deals. As far as the diff cover bolts, I have no clue. I know the aftermarket braced diff covers call for something insanely low like 15 ft/lbs or something like that. I can tell you to throw the diff cover gasket away or return it if you bought it separate as they ALWAYS leak. Use RTV to seal it up.

2> The parts stores tell you that because that's always been the rule. If you have a GM, and if it has limited slip, you put the fluid in it. See my response to 4 for additional info.

3> Your car has 4 channel ABS, therefore it has the sensors on each individual axle. The older cars had a 3 channel ABS so the ring and sensor are right at the ring gear.

4> It calls for 80w/90, but I highly recommend going with a 75w/140 full synthetic. It's more protection when the rearend gets hot and a better fluid, which will come with limited slip additive already in it, in most cases. Whether your car needs it or not (apparently not by reading other posts) it will be in there and won't hurt anything. It reduces friction, which reduces heat and increases wheel horsepower, but probably nothing significant.

BTW, they make what they call a "repair bearing" for our cars so that you don't have to buy an axle if a wheel bearing takes a dump. It sits the bearing on a good part of the axle in a different location than the part that is cooked. If it ever burns up on that side again, then you'll have to buy an axle. Axle bearing failure is not very common on an f-body, it's usually pinion bearing failure, ring or pinion breaking off, or spider gear failure.

[axgrndr]

thanks guys. that helps a lot. are the repair bearings readily availble at napa or autozone type store or is it a specialty thing? any info on a part number and store would be appriciated. the axle is toast w/ about a 1mm wear gouge.. its been bad longer than i realized or it gave any indication of problems. the other side is looking like its not far behind. it was apparent it was worked on before so maybe someone put in cheaper parts etc. and again thanks- ron

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

Locktite that little screw that holds the crosspin in there.

[MN6WS6]

I know that Carquest and Oreilly's usually keep them in stock or at their closest warehouse. You can shop oreillyautoparts.com to see what the closest store to you has.

[Injuneer]

1. ive been unable to find any info on torque values for the little bolt on the carrier that you take out to pull the axles as well as values for rear diff cover bolts. anyone know what they are?

On the older auburn/eaton style rears, the pinion gear shaft lock bolt was torqued to 27 lb-ft.

3> Your car has 4 channel ABS, therefore it has the sensors on each individual axle. The older cars had a 3 channel ABS so the ring and sensor are right at the ring gear.

Doesn't depend on whether its an "older" car. 3-channel = ABS only. 4-channel = ABS + TCS = axgrndr's car. All years.

FYI: r-e-l-u-c-t-o-r ring.

[axgrndr]

ok. this has turned out to be a headache. i got the repair bearings and could not get the axle slid in enough to install the c-clips. after much head scratching etc. called o-riellys back to make sure i had the correct bearings. and they call out a federal mogul rp5707. so called federal mogul tech support. and oh joy.. they forgot to put in the catalog that the repair bearing will not work with the speed sensor rings at the ends of the axle. theres apparently no option for a repair bearing. so if you have a 4channel you have to use the regular bearings. which in my case means new axles. thought this might be some good info for anyone running across this in the future. so now off to go pull the bearings and get them changed out to standard ones. and looking for new axles. id prefer not to go with used ones. anyone have recommendations on affordable new axles? car is a daily driver and dont plan on seeing a track outside of just for fun maybe once in a great while. thanks in advance- ron

[MN6WS6]

New axles are pretty steep. I'd see if I could find a rearend in a u-pull-it place to save some money. A rearend out of a junkyard will probably have some surface rust on the axle, but nothing that some emery cloth can't take out. You might want to re-stud the axle while you're at it, no telling how many times those studs have been hammered on with an impact on a used axle.