The firehawk is due for its first oil change and I don't want someone else working on it. However, I do not own jacks or ramps currently. I am as skinny as it gets. Any chance I can do the oil without putting it up?
Get a set of Rhino ramps, generally about $40, and even less if you can find them on sale. Cheap plastic, but work fine. I have a set for the track (just in case I ever take the car out of the garage again ).
Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
It is NEVER a bad idea to purchase a low-profile, high-lift jack and a set of stands. Sure it's a big up-front expense, but it's well worth it in my opinion. Tire rotations, oil changes, major repairs, those all require a jack and jackstands, might as well own one.
Yeah, it's not worth trying to crawl under there without jacking or lifting on ramps. I have a BMI of 17 and I can hardly get in there. Maybe if I tried hard, but if you rotate or make a sudden movement, you will bang your head, arms or torso against something. Even with it minimally jacked, I ended up with bruises and scrapes all over.
94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...
We have steel ramps but the problem is my Grand Am and Firebird have too shallow of approach angle requirements. The nose pushes the ramp away before the tires come close to the ramp. So I built my own out of 2x10 and 2x4. Now both cars can easily scoot up them. And it was cheap.
PM me if you want photos and design elements. They put the car's front up higher that most store-bought ramps and are nice and wide.
As the other guys have eluded, there's really no good way to change an fbody's oil without elevating the front.
1997 Pontiac Grand Am, 216k+ miles and still moving fast
2004 Pontiac Grand Am SCT, but 35k on the clock
1983 Male Driver, driving Front Wheel Drive only, for now
I use a set of Sears two-piece ramps. They raise the car a full 10", and the ramp portion comes off for extra clearance when you are working under the car. They also are wide enough for tires like 275's, and even handle my 315 drag radials fairly well.
Another advantage of the two piece design is the ability to shim the ramp with 2x10's to solve the problems of the low nose on the 4th Gens. I have a 45-deg bevel cut on a 2x10 board about 3-ft long, and another board stacked on the last 1.5-ft of the first one. The end of the ramp rests in a groove cut about 6" from the end of the top board. Works perfectly.
But the Rhino's are a lot easier to take to the track.
Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
Guys im getting pretty pissed right now. I found the oil drain plug but I am afraid I am stripping it. I am using a 5/8 socket on it and it doesnt seem to being doing the job.
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