Got those a-arm, ball joint blues.....

[formula_gramps]

O.k.....so do these things only happen to me?....LOL.

My passenger side, front, lower ball joint was showing signs of wear, so I decided to replace it. The driver side one is solid by the way, no sign of any slop.

Well, ater trying to tap it out and/or press it out with a hand press which really wasn't ideally suited for this car, and not be able to get it to budge (imagine that after 14 years of New England weather...), I decided that my next option was to remove the entire a-arm (or lower control arm if you prefer), take it to a nearby shop where they have a hydraulic press, and have them press out the old one and press in a new one.

With enough patience and a quart of PB Blaster, I actually got all the nuts that attach to the control arm off without much difficulty, but here's the problem:

Everything is removed except for the one long thru-bolt that is one of the two bolts that hold the arm to the frame. The other bolt is mounted horizontally and is out now. This problem one, is the one more towards the rear that is mounted vertically. I won't even bother to talk about how hard it is to get to the top of this bolt because of the design, or I'd violate your terms of posting.

But get this: The nut is off, I can wiggle the bolt from the bottom end and see it wiggle at the top, (even that special little clip they put over the hex head and then has a tab the fits into a hole in the frame to keep the bolt from turning, even that is moving slightly), but it will not push up through the bushing and up through the frame! I tried tapping up with an oak block and a hefty hammer and it will not budge. I figured that the only thing it could be, is the steel sleeve in the bushing must be rusted solid right to the bolt's shaft. (A tight fit originally, maybe?)

Then I decided to use a more scientific method. I doused the thing with PB and put my floor jack with a block on it, under the bolt and jacked it up. Surely, if it was just a case of the steel sleeve inside the bushing being rusted solid to the shaft of the bolt, that should push it free..... And yet I jacked it to the point where it was just taking the weight of the front of the car off the jackstands......and it still won't pop free!

Now I know that some of you folks have had experience taking these out perhaps to swap them for performance a-arms for example. I realize I'm testing your memory but please tell me the GM clowns didn't do something monumentally stupid like having that bolt actually threaded to the inside of the sleeve.

Right now the bolt end sits on the jack with the arrangement described above, and I'm hoping with the weight of the vehicle and the PB, that it will break loose....but right now I stuck!

Any advice short of "take it a shop next time" will be appreciated...LOL.

Thanks everyone!

[ConElite]

When I Changed out my Bushings on the A-Arms I conpletely removed the Hor. Front bolt, Pretty much removed the Spindel and Then Loosened the Rear Vert. Bolt. There should be no Issues with that bolt Sliding up. That things is Siezed on there or something. Maybe an Air hammer if you have one. I cant recall there being that much restriction to the top of that bolt. Yeah I know its a tight fit but you should be about to see it alright. Ill look through my PIctures of when I did my bushings to see if I can Find anything about this.

[formula_gramps]

Thanks ConElite,

Yeah....it wouldn't seem like they would have threads inside the sleeve, but when you think that I can support the whole weight of the front on the bottom of that bolt, and it still won't break through, it has to really be stuck to the shaft of the bolt itself.

That's a good idea about an air hammer. I'm assuming you are referring to the pistol grip type pneumatic chisel tool with different tips. If I can put a blunt end on the end of a tip I can try hammering that bolt upward. Hard to hammer it with a small sledge because it's so close to the ground and therefore you can't get a heck of a lot of "swing" on it. Maybe 3 to 5k hits per minute will persuade it to move.

I don't have pneumatic hammer, but then I'm always looking for an excuse to buy another tool...LOL. I have a real good compressor so I'll pick one up today and give that a try. Thanks. I'll post how that worked out!

[99Firebird3800]

Or you could go my route when things get stuck - make enough room, thread the nut back on until it's flush with the end of the bolt. Then grab your biggest, heaviest hammer and swing away until it moves. It's not the best or even the safest, but 9 times out of 10 it works for me.

[formula_gramps]

99,

Yup, that's my usual method of attack too, and I tried that but it wouldn't budge. Part of the problem is the car is not on a lift and there is little space to swing the hammer upward. That's why I tried the jack thing. Figured if it was just stuck the weight of the front end should push it through! Lifted the whole front off the ground on that one bolt....LOL. However:

********* good news !!! ***********

ConElite:

I went out and bought a Kobalt air hammer. It came with a bunch of tips. Figured the one I'd use the least was the pointy one, so I cut the end off, leaving me a flat surface to face the bottom of the bolt (after four cutting blades....man that is some tough steel!).

Put it under there and after a few pulses it started to move! Still took some doing-- but it's out.

Thanks man, I appreciate the recommendation!! That's why I love this place. Always lots of good advice to be had when you're in one of those situations and your brain is fried.....LOL.

[99Firebird3800]

I suggest that when you go to reinstall that bolt, make sure that you do your best to get all the rust off. Some light sanding should do the trick. Then I recommend either bushing grease or anti-sieze to keep it from happening again.

[ConElite]

********* good news !!! ***********

ConElite:

I went out and bought a Kobalt air hammer. It came with a bunch of tips. Figured the one I'd use the least was the pointy one, so I cut the end off, leaving me a flat surface to face the bottom of the bolt (after four cutting blades....man that is some tough steel!).

Put it under there and after a few pulses it started to move! Still took some doing-- but it's out.

Thanks man, I appreciate the recommendation!! That's why I love this place. Always lots of good advice to be had when you're in one of those situations and your brain is fried.....LOL.

Oh yeah Thats Harden Steel man, Its a pain to cut.


All in all Im Glad my suggestions helped you get that sucker out of there. If you have a Wire-wheel or a bench grinder take the bolt and clean it up. If its oxidized I would recommend you go and get new bolts. They cant be no more than $20 for both at the dealer, you just might have to wait b/c I doubt they will have them in stock.

Those Air Hammers Are a must if you dont have a Lift b/c sometimes there just is not enought space to get a good swing with a hammer.