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  • How to replace oil pump

    I'm getting close to dropping the oil pan to replace the rear main seal and was thinking of replacing the oil pump (mostly because of the plastic coupler on the shaft).

    Is this simply a drop out the bottom, or do I need to remove the intake to access the gear? I'm hoping I don't need to remove the intake to do this, but don't know for sure.

    Seeing people report failures due to the plastic coupler breaking has got me worried.
    Al 96 Ram Air T/A
    Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

  • #2
    If it makes the decision any easier, you don't need to remove the pan to replace the RMS, just the transmission/clutch(if so equipped). If the RMS housing seal is leaking, then you would need to remove the pan.

    You don't need to mess with the intake to replace the oil pump, but you will have to correctly align the top of the drive shaft with the drive gear when installing the new pump.
    Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

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    • #3
      Thanks Rob. I'm doing the pan gasket, hence, I'm going to replace the RMS because it "may" be leaking. My buddy owns a shop in town and he owes me a favor, so why not.

      Can the driveshaft be aligned without removing the intake? Is it just a matter of spinning the shaft slightly to mesh with the gears? I searched your page..that's how I first became aware of the plastic coupler issue. After hours of research, I think replacing the pump with the Melling unit and improved shaft design is cheap insurance. However, if I have to pull the intake, I'll hold off until I do heads and cam in the coming years.


      Heck, I only have 42K on the car, but I believe in "do it once...do it right". Getting to the pump is a royal PITA, so if it's just a matter of dropping the old, and installing the new, I'll do it. Not sure what the life expectancy is on the plastic piece, but it does have me worried. A loss of oil pressure would be a BAD thing (LOL).

      BTW - I used your bolt list to source out stainless. I've also discovered (and cataloged) numerous other bolt sizes for things like fender bolts, hood bolts, etc. Would you like the info. to add to your list?
      Al 96 Ram Air T/A
      Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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      • #4
        The pan can be a pain to get off with the engine in the car. It may take some engine jacking and rotation of the crank to get it to clear the throws in the front.

        You should be able to look up into the oil pump drive from below and orient the shaft to engage it properly. Or just observer real close how the old shaft is oriented when you remove the pump-that might help.

        I also have an ongoing list of bolts that are not on my website. If you want to sent me what you have, I'll take a look. I can't promise they will make it to the web page.
        Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

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        • #5
          Is this something I should even do, or am I just paranoid?
          Al 96 Ram Air T/A
          Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

          Comment


          • #6
            I would not pull the pan, just to change the plastic coupler, but if the pan is off anyway....
            Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

            Comment


            • #7
              My thoughts exactly. I'm replacing the pan gasket because I replaced the timing cover gasket, and as expected, tore the front seal. And, since I'm in there...


              I'm just trying to save a bunch of hours from having to lift the intake.
              Al 96 Ram Air T/A
              Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

              Comment

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