Regarding #2, was it exactly 5 minutes to get hot? The stock PCM programming is set for the temp to get up to ~235 (looks like just under the red), then the high speed/secondary fans kick in. It then cools to about 205, then cycles back to 235. Stock runs hot, but I'm not sure if this is your case here - 5 minutes seems way too short for a cold engine to get that hot.
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My 94 Z28 head job
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Really?
Temp gauge was right under the red, I was just surprised not in the middle like regular.
Engine may have been started and warmed up a bit 1 time, then started again and run for 5min+, who knows.
I'm changing oil & filter now, and need to flush the coolant a bunch. We'll see how it runs, if I can [oil/coolant]run ANYTHING through engine and clear up smoking issue initially.
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From what it sounds like to me the engine was overheated and blew the head gasket/s. you say they were really bad in #7 and 8 cyl. meaning both gaskets were blown or just one side. Are you aware that #7 and 8 are on seperate banks of the engine (meaning different sides). anyway, from what you've described it sounds like it's been ran a good bit with the blown gasket/s. lots of things could have happened in that time. ask me how I know.
1. glazed the rings
2. killed the lower end bearings (coolant in the oil will do this EXTREMELY fast)
3. cracked block
4. cracked head/s
5. killed the cam bearings (again, happens EXTREMELY fast with coolant in oil)
6. Flattened cam lobes
Theres alot more that needs to be checked and looked at when head gaskets blow, other than jsut putting new ones on. Especially if it has and run time on it at all.'95 T/A Conv., Green, Tan Top
'00 T/A Silver
'86 Chevy RCSB 4WD (LS1to go in)
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did you bleed the water line? i did that with mine it got soo bad with air that i had to crack the valves and leave them open all night to vent all the air out.94 V6 A4~~LT1 M6~~383 M6 13.1 @ 109 with a 2.1 60' Sold/Stripped
94 Z28 383 A4 Sold
75 Chevy~~~~ SOLD
1992 Convertable RS 305/700r4 <<<Just a Beater
GOT PSi?
Good Cause Your Gonna Need It!!!
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Originally posted by TajManI've let air bleed out that screw till just coolant comes out, made sure radiator is full multiple times.
There is still a light on, on the gauges, looks like a radiator with an arrow pointing down indicating its not full or something.
???Tracy
2002 C5 M6 Convertible
1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
Current Mods:
SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids
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Originally posted by TraceZThat light is "low coolant". The sensor is located in the radiator, just below the radiator cap. It is common for that sensor to foul and show a false low. It can be left unplugged and the light will go out, or you can replace the sensor.
i would have to agree +194 V6 A4~~LT1 M6~~383 M6 13.1 @ 109 with a 2.1 60' Sold/Stripped
94 Z28 383 A4 Sold
75 Chevy~~~~ SOLD
1992 Convertable RS 305/700r4 <<<Just a Beater
GOT PSi?
Good Cause Your Gonna Need It!!!
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