Opinion on Replacing Fluids Due to Their Age

[Timbers]

Hey guys whats your opinion on replacing fluids just due to how old they are? I have a 1997 Trans Am that I've had since March of 1997. It has 60,542 miles on it, I barely put 1000 miles a year on it now. I've replaced the coolant in it once already because I know the stuff is supposed to only last 5 years.

What about the transmission fluid, rear diff fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid, clutch fluid? The stuff is 11 years old now. Is it a good idea to swap it out for some new stuff?

Bigger question is how do you swap brake fluid, clutch fluid, and power steering fluids? Never had to think of changing those before!

Thanks,

...Tim

[SteveH95Formula]

Probalby the biggest things are transmission and rear differential fluids. Especially if you have the limited slip diff. and don't forget the additive that GM recomends. It makes your gears quiter. When changing the trans, fluid clean out the bottom of the pan real good and the magnet as there will be really fine metal shavings like a polishing paste. Change the filter too. If the seal ring won't come off easily just leave it and take off the one on the new trans. filter.
I've changed my diff. and trans. fluid a few times. Its a '95 Formula with 90K miles or so.
As far as the brakes, I would'nt worry about it unless you want to bleed them as recommended by the service manual.

[Timbers]

6 Speed

I have a manual tranny, is there a filter in there? I don't think there is...

...Tim

[Performin Norman]

I have a manual tranny, is there a filter in there? I don't think there is...

...Tim

Shouldn't be.

[Al 96 Ram Air T/A]

Manual tranny fluid is drained by removing the plug on the passenger side of the case. To fill, I found it easier to remove the shifter (in the car) and fill. Remove the fill plug on the driver's side of the trans case, and when fluid begins to run out, your good.

I just did this...took nearly all of the 4 quarts of ATF I bought.

For the power steering fluid, simply remove one of the lines going to the rack on the K-member. The reservoir is easy enough to suck dry, or remove and empty. To flush, simply by twice as much fluid as you need. Drain, refill, run it for a week to circulate, the drain and fill again. It'll get 95% of the old stuff out, and the fluid is cheap.


I replaced all of my fluids last week for the same reason. No "fluid" last forever...so I replaced all of them.

The most important are oil, coolant, and brake fluid. Everything else can go longer, but does wear out eventually.

[MN6WS6]

I'd highly recommend stepping up to a full synthetic in the rearend, and up the viscosity to a 75w140.

[SteveH95Formula]

OK I was talking about an Auto. but as stated above per manual trans. just no filter I guess.

[Wild Willy]

Brake fluid is cheap, especially compared to replacing an ABS pump- and brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air. Think of the heat cycles from a few hard stops-

I agree with all the other fluids, too, and add the coolant- I have run both the green and the orange, and just use whatever the manufacturer recommends- I figure 50,000 miles or 3 years- and flush everything out when you are changing it- again, cheap insurance.

Some of you guys change your cars every couple of years- if you are keeping them for the long haul, this is preventative maintenance- I have put over 200,000 miles on several cars and trucks- If the vehicle runs good, I enjoy driving it, and I know the maintenance record of it, why not? I would rather pay maintenance costs on a vehicle I know than make payments on something new to me that may have undiscovered problems-

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

I'm another guy telling you to do your brake fluid. It is designed to absorb water (hydroscopic) and that water will eventually corrode your brake system. It is usually black in most of the cars I see, and I suspect that is one of the most neglected maintenance items on even the nicest cars.

[3800_Firebird]

I'd highly recommend stepping up to a full synthetic in the rearend, and up the viscosity to a 75w140.

Any particular brand you find works best?

[MN6WS6]

I personally run Royal Purple, but that's only because I get it at cost. Anything that clearly states it has GM compatible LSD additive in it is fine, if you have a limited slip. I choose to run 75w140 because I tow with my WS6, and I'm not one to stop too often on road trips, so the rearend doesn't get a break with me behind the wheel. I'm WAY harder on rearends as far as temps go because I tow with mine, but I've never had a problem with the 75w140.