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  • 35mm front bar installed

    I finally got my 35mm front swaybar. I replaced my 32 mm 1LE(anybody need one for free?)So now my susp is complete. All new coils, shocks, endlinks, LCA brackets . Lemme tell you it sticks around corners 35mm front and 22 mm rear bars.

    So ya my underside isnt ssheets clean. Plus it rained. New belts also. No leaks just the usual dirt and grime

    http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...08/3532bar.jpg

    http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...08/sidebar.jpg

    http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...08/3532bar.jpg
    2000 Z28 SLP sub frames, J&M LCA's, KYB shocks, Waitforme tuning. Ported TB & intake 35/22 swaybars, Firehawk tires

  • #2
    Originally posted by msfyter
    I finally got my 35mm front swaybar. I replaced my 32 mm 1LE(anybody need one for free?)So now my susp is complete. All new coils, shocks, endlinks, LCA brackets . Lemme tell you it sticks around corners 35mm front and 22 mm rear bars.
    Where did you purchase them? Price? Are they come with the new 35 mm & 22 mm poly bushings with the price including?

    Do you notice a better performance with this upgrade over the old one? Tell us your impressions please. My car has installed 32 mm front and 21 mm rear (1LE setup) and I'd like to know if it'll worth the replace.

    Nice ride! better performance!
    Congrats
    dochidalgo
    97 A4 Pontiac Firebird Trans am with $everal mod$

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    • #3
      I got everything from "sam stano" He is currently out of his hollow 35 bars and wont have any for 3-4 months. Mine is solid. I have Eibach LT1 coils springs instead of LS1's which sag. 1.25" drop. The rear swaybar is from a thirdgen camaro IROC 22mm. All poly bushings. Shocks are KYB AGX 8 way adjustable. As for the ride, firm but not harsh. I live now for freeway on and off ramps with a curve. The ride is more predictable and it just plain sticks to the road. Tire help also. 17"x9.5 fronts with 275's and the rears are 18"x10.5" with 295-35-18 firestone firehawk tires. High speed 100 mph or so no floating .
      2000 Z28 SLP sub frames, J&M LCA's, KYB shocks, Waitforme tuning. Ported TB & intake 35/22 swaybars, Firehawk tires

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      • #4
        That's Sam Strano...

        http://www.stranoparts.com/
        Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

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        • #5
          sorry I forgot the R Sam is great to deal with
          2000 Z28 SLP sub frames, J&M LCA's, KYB shocks, Waitforme tuning. Ported TB & intake 35/22 swaybars, Firehawk tires

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          • #6
            Doc,


            I did this upgrade last year. However, I'm not sure how accurate my results are, since I also replace the shocks and LCAs.

            However, going from 1LE bars to Sam's bars showed a marked improvement in keeping the car completely flat in the corners. The biggest difference can be felt when correcting too much steering input. Previously, if you went in hot and overcompensated, allowing the rear to hang out, any correction of the wheel caused the car to rock/sway heavily. Now, the car responds and brings the rear under control.

            The reverse is also true. If you're tight in the corners, but fail to enter enough steering, you can correct midstream and keep the car under control.

            But..I'm not sure if the shocks are really deserving of this credit. I ditched some of the worst shocks available for our cars (DeCarbon) and installed some of the best (Koni). I also lowered the car 1/2 " all around.

            My advice- if money is tight, hold off on replacing the bars. I would do shocks before hand. If you have money to burn, then sure...the bars can't hurt. But, my prediction is you will only feel an improvement at 95%. The 1LE is not that bad. The Strano bars are better, but this is relative to where you're starting from.
            Al 96 Ram Air T/A
            Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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            • #7
              Al
              I appreciate your comments. That's exactly what I wanted to read, a personal ( or first hand) experience over the suspension upgrade performance.

              You're right as always, I had a e mail conversation with Mr Strano and He told me to replace sway bar ( front mainly) and shocks (rear mainly) and Koni was the recommended brand, and drop the car a little (this one it is not in my mind, definitely, because the bad mexican roads).

              Thank you so much for your invaluable information

              Take care
              Dochidalgo
              97 A4 Pontiac Firebird Trans am with $everal mod$

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              • #8
                For the price of the Sway bars I think im going to keep my 1LE and get a 22mm rear like "msfyter." I already have the rear suspension done, Just need the Bar. I have a complete Poly bushing kit installed by Energy suspension. With ES End links and Bushings on the Front and rear SB I should be good.

                All Im going to do now is get the KYB 8 ways b/c Koni's are way out of my price range! maybe one day. That and some Hawk Pads I should be set. I hit the canyons this weekend and my car was on rails, and thats with trash Sumi. tires.
                Eddie
                2000 M6 Trans Am
                Tune+exhaust=344WHP

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                • #9
                  Doc,

                  To add, lowering did not have any adverse affect on the ride quality. The real beauty of the Koni's are the ability to abdust settings. At full soft, it's like a nice Corvette...solid, but not overly harsh. On full hard, it's like a go-kart (a bit too much for me...our roads in NJ are pretty bad too). I have the front on two clicks from full hard, and the rear on two clicks from full soft. it's firm, but not bad at all.

                  Another detriment to ride quality is the tires. The 17" tires ride a bit harder than 16" as the side walls do help to absorb some of the bumps.

                  My car is set up very similarly to Sam Strano's car. I spoke with him at length, so I learned a lot. With my setup (see below) the car handles extremely well. I don't use it much in the winter, as the drop in temperature really stiffen things up. It's a much better driving car in temperatures above 50 degrees F. I gave up drag racing the car years ago and wanted to set up a great autocross capable car, however, it had to be compliant with NJ roads.

                  I have not been disappointed in my choice of parts. The car handles 10x better than it did stock, with no squeaks or rattles. Not bad for a so called "cheaply made muscle-car" with 13 years on her.
                  Al 96 Ram Air T/A
                  Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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                  • #10
                    Al

                    My car has installed the same 1LE springs like yours, and 16" wheels yet.
                    With your extended information, seems to me, I have to purchase the Koni's instead the SLP Bilsteins installed until now and the 35 mm front bar. Now I know for sure how to upgrade my suspension with the right set up.

                    Thanks a lot again
                    dochidalgo
                    97 A4 Pontiac Firebird Trans am with $everal mod$

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      i have four new firehawk wide ovals, very sticky , you wont spin them unles you put your foot to the floor and dump the clutch, which i dont,also front and rear eibach sway bars, noticed a big diff in cornering, and no body roll, since then i have replaced lower panhard rod and added spohn tunnel brace, even better cornering, i have but havnt installed upper panhard rod- bmr, bmr lower control arms billet, bmr tourque arm and xmsn cross member, i know its going to be rock steady, already had eibach springs and bilstein shocks, also kooks hdrs and y, 1 mph over speed bumps
                      2002 Firehawk, LS 7 Flyw/clutch,
                      Kooks Hdrs/Y high flow cats, SLP Ldmth 1 catback,
                      Spohn solid motor mounts/lowr panhard/tunnel brace
                      BMR Billet control arms/upper panhard/tourque arm/trans crossmember
                      Eibach springs/sway bars

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