has anyone ever done this? I have 2 point Weld-ins and I really want to get the Double diamond design. Has anyone ever removed weld in units? Im pretty experienced with grinders and cutting wheels. Im just curious if anyone has every done it.
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Removing Welding-in SFC?
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Been thinking the same thing...I've been staring at a few Camaros and want to transfer parts like the SFCs.
Had the car on the lift lastnight to replace leaking manifold gaskets and looked at the welds. I figure a grinder would work...but you'd have to be very careful.
Christopher Teng
1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune
Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K
F-Body Dirty Dozen
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I've never removed welded-in subframe connectors, but I can't imagine it'd be terrible difficult if you take your time about it. If you have a lift I'm sure that'll be a HUGE help, along with a spare set of hands to hold it so it doesn't drop on your head. I wouldn't advise using a torch to take 'em out myself, but I'm sure someone who was experienced with one might consider it.
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I have a LOT of experience with Grinders and Die Grinders. I have like 4 grinders with a pretty good Compressor. No lift but can get my car up pretty high. I think im going to try it. Im going to use myt welders mask to protect my face from sparks
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Eddie
2000 M6 Trans Am
Tune+exhaust=344WHP

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Sounds like you have enough experience to take care of it. Keep us posted on the progress.Originally posted by ConEliteI have a LOT of experience with Grinders and Die Grinders. I have like 4 grinders with a pretty good Compressor. No lift but can get my car up pretty high. I think im going to try it. Im going to use myt welders mask to protect my face from sparks
.LS15 Power! Another LSx engine coming soon.

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Gotta try...you'll probably walk away saying "that wasn't that hard at all..." LOL!Originally posted by ConEliteBut im scared!
Im going to try it.
Christopher Teng
1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune
Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K
F-Body Dirty Dozen
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See, I was thinking just the opposite- by the time you spend hours under your car, sucking dust and sparks, and wearing out grinding bits, and cutting holes in the floorplan, it almost seems like it would be easier to buy new ones. Almost think it would be easier to weld in a couple more pieces if you are that handy at fabricating stuff up-2001 Z28 A4 - 160 deg t-stat, 3.42 gears, WS6 sway bars, rear springs and shocks, UMI SFC's, Torque Arm and STB, leather Firebird seats, Borla, SLP Y-pipe and lid, ZO6 cam and springs - 332 RWHP and 346 RWTQ, not bad for 'almost stock' - work in progress
"Black, the fastest color"
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huh?
I Think you might be confused. I have them welded on my car, BUt I want to remove the 2 points and go with the double diamond design. Im going to have to buy a new set but I need to remove the old ones.
I came to a conclusion. Im going to leave those on, Buy a tunnel Brace from BMR and a 3-pint shock tower brace. That with some KYB's will complete my suspension set-up!Eddie
2000 M6 Trans Am
Tune+exhaust=344WHP

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That was the second part of my post, excuse the rambling- I was saying leave the 2-piece in, and add some more bracing. The tunnel brace is a good idea, just tie the edges to the center- Whatever weight you add will be down low, and the strengthening is worth it, IMHO2001 Z28 A4 - 160 deg t-stat, 3.42 gears, WS6 sway bars, rear springs and shocks, UMI SFC's, Torque Arm and STB, leather Firebird seats, Borla, SLP Y-pipe and lid, ZO6 cam and springs - 332 RWHP and 346 RWTQ, not bad for 'almost stock' - work in progress
"Black, the fastest color"
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+1Originally posted by Wild WillyThat was the second part of my post, excuse the rambling- I was saying leave the 2-piece in, and add some more bracing. The tunnel brace is a good idea, just tie the edges to the center- Whatever weight you add will be down low, and the strengthening is worth it, IMHO
It sounds like you have already came to this conclusion...
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j/k.

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