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LT1 Waterpump replacement

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  • LT1 Waterpump replacement

    I dont recall how to do this so Ill post it. My buddy has an LT1 bird and is changingthe waterpump. He removed the screws but he says that the Shaft that connects the Pump to the Cam gear is holding it and will not come loose. From my understanding all you have to do is Pry the pump off.

    Is this correct?
    Eddie
    2000 M6 Trans Am
    Tune+exhaust=344WHP

  • #2
    Ive done 4 in the past. Once all the mounting bolts are loose just wobble it and it should come right off.
    2000 Z28 SLP sub frames, J&M LCA's, KYB shocks, Waitforme tuning. Ported TB & intake 35/22 swaybars, Firehawk tires

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    • #3
      The dex-cool makes a sticky residue that could hold the whole thing onto the block at the coolant ports. I used a block of w00d and a mallet to tap it loose. and the shaft disconnects at either the W/P or the block
      -Ryan-


      1997 Pontiac Firerbird Formula LT1/T56
      2006 Pontiac G6 GTP, 3.9L V6, 6-spd

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      • #4
        not to sound like a doubting thomas but he is sure he has all the bolts out . . . including the one holding the air pump bracket on and the one behind the powersteering pump pully ?
        Red 97 V6 (STOCK), Black 96 Ram Air WS6 M6 5.0 PRO, skip shift delete basicaly stock, for now . . .

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        • #5
          yeah there should be 6 total on just the water pump itself theres one u gotta use an ext and a short socket on thats behind the power steering pulley. its kinda hidden on that side.
          '97 Trans Am - B&M Short Throw - B&M Line Lock - k&N Cold air - 6 speed - Lt1 T-Tops - Lowered

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          • #6
            Is there any RTV sealant on the shaft by chance?
            The *****who I bought my Fbod from screwed up a bunch of things,
            Doing the opti, I had a similar problem, all the bolts were out, the thing just wouldnt come apart. turns out there were no paper seals on the inlet/outlets, just red RTV binding the pump to the block(and the drive for the pump, wtf).
            It's also possible that the spline drive is worn a little and slipped into a male/male position with the spline interlock if ya know what I mean.
            I'm nowhere as experienced as some of the guys on here, but I thought i'd help.
            Also, think about upgrading to an electric water pump while its apart IMHO.
            -Alex
            1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
            ZO6 wheels (clones)
            LED exterior and interior lighting
            With questionable guts:
            Forged bottom end
            free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
            pacesetter longtubes
            T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
            Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
            K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
            96? ws6 hood
            96? ws6 spoiler
            full emissions delete
            polished heads with oversize valve job
            Edelbrock IAS shocks
            Full tubular Chassis minus k member
            Daily Driver and love it that way
            Motor is not what you'd think.

            Comment


            • #7
              Normally it is the dowel pins that hold it on. The coupling shouldn't.
              Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

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              • #8
                On that note those pins that extend from the block might have corrosion or be warped or something, that would be good enough reason for a lock up. Just put a 2x2 behind the right side against the block and nudge it out.
                -Alex
                1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
                ZO6 wheels (clones)
                LED exterior and interior lighting
                With questionable guts:
                Forged bottom end
                free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
                pacesetter longtubes
                T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
                Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
                K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
                96? ws6 hood
                96? ws6 spoiler
                full emissions delete
                polished heads with oversize valve job
                Edelbrock IAS shocks
                Full tubular Chassis minus k member
                Daily Driver and love it that way
                Motor is not what you'd think.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Rob B (shoebox)
                  Normally it is the dowel pins that hold it on. The coupling shouldn't.
                  Hello sir, You would not happen to have a tutorial on how to change the pump. I was on your site and I could not find one. My buddy thats doing this is still having a hard to removing that bracket.
                  Eddie
                  2000 M6 Trans Am
                  Tune+exhaust=344WHP

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Ahhh the good ol' days of LT1's. Id like to kick the designer in the nuts when he designed that set up.
                    2000 Z28 SLP sub frames, J&M LCA's, KYB shocks, Waitforme tuning. Ported TB & intake 35/22 swaybars, Firehawk tires

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by ConElite
                      Hello sir, You would not happen to have a tutorial on how to change the pump. I was on your site and I could not find one. My buddy thats doing this is still having a hard to removing that bracket.
                      Should be covered in the cam removal/install "how to's".
                      Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

                      Comment

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