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  • Feedack system voltage?

    What the voltage supposed to be at the coolant temp. sending unit connector on the side of the water pump on the lt1?
    Should be either
    5 or 10 volts since its connected to the PCM.
    thanks!

    also, does the coolant gauge on the dash usually read a little off proportion to the digital PCM readout?
    -Alex
    1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
    ZO6 wheels (clones)
    LED exterior and interior lighting
    With questionable guts:
    Forged bottom end
    free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
    pacesetter longtubes
    T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
    Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
    K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
    96? ws6 hood
    96? ws6 spoiler
    full emissions delete
    polished heads with oversize valve job
    Edelbrock IAS shocks
    Full tubular Chassis minus k member
    Daily Driver and love it that way
    Motor is not what you'd think.

  • #2
    The PCM supplies 5.0V. The temp sensor is a thermistor, who's resistance is inverse to temperature. High temp -> 0 resistance, low temp -> 100,000ohms. The exact resistance for each temperature is shown in tables on Shoebox's website and on mine.

    http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#ect

    Scroll down to "CLT (Coolant Temp)":
    http://www.injuneer.com/ScanMast.html

    As a result, the voltage on the circuit, measured across the 2 pins on the harness connector will only show 5V with the harness connector off the sensor. With the harness connected, you might see voltages like these:

    170*F 3.0V
    176*F 3.3V
    195*F 3.4V

    Voltage will approach 0 at very cold temps, will approach 5V at very high temps.

    In my 94, the coolant temp gauge (from the sensor in the drivers side head) appears to be within 5* of the PCM reading.
    Fred

    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

    Comment


    • #3
      Great, thanks again.

      Whats the range that these thermistors are usually accurate/operable between?
      -Alex
      1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
      ZO6 wheels (clones)
      LED exterior and interior lighting
      With questionable guts:
      Forged bottom end
      free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
      pacesetter longtubes
      T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
      Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
      K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
      96? ws6 hood
      96? ws6 spoiler
      full emissions delete
      polished heads with oversize valve job
      Edelbrock IAS shocks
      Full tubular Chassis minus k member
      Daily Driver and love it that way
      Motor is not what you'd think.

      Comment


      • #4
        The sensor body is matched to the service... IAT is plastic, CLT is typically metal. They function from -40* (C & F) to about 300*F, but I've never seen the table of resistance vs. temp for anything above 212*F. I'd say they are extremely reliable and easy to check. I have multiple IAT and CLT temp sensors in my engine, because I'm running two separate ECU's, and they are all very close in temperature.

        The PCM uses the 2-wire sensor, because there is an internal resistor in the PCM. The readings will probably be more accurate than the 1-wire sensor for the coolant temp gauge, which relies on the various engine and chassis grounds.
        Fred

        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

        Comment


        • #5
          OK i got the sensors out,

          im getting readings of 2950 ohms on the single wire sender on the drivers side head,
          and 3160 ohms on the one from the water pump.
          They seem close enough to be fine, but heres the thing...

          After I did my math, which is rusty,
          For every degree change indicated there should be a a 114.444.... of Ohm value change. This is telling me that at 3160 ohms, it comes to 71.14 deg F, while the 2950 ohms comes to 75.4 deg F. This will only work for in between 68 and 77 deg on the scale and is obviously a ballpark figure average of change.
          YES that is within a healthy level(that 5 deg you were telling me about Injuneer), but taking into effect this is room temp water. Both sensors were tested while in the same shot glass of water after letting sit for 30 min with no movement or anything.

          I'm assuming that this difference is not a linear function, because:

          It is NOT
          Water temp at pump, 190 deg F
          Water temp at head, 195.4 deg F

          It IS more like
          WT at WP 195 deg F
          WT at head 180 deg F

          Iam at a loss at this one,

          and the difference gets worse as the temp climbs etc.

          I'm thinking a new water pump sender would be a good idea, but why blow the money if the old one is fine.

          as far as voltage supplied at sensors, 5.00v at the PCM to CLT temp, and 11.7 v at the head connector both with the car off, battery voltage at 12.07v.

          I've included a pic of the two that I'm testing, one is the pu109 (two wire)
          the other is the one wire, can't find the part number anywhere.
          sorry about the quality, its a cell phone picture.

          What have I missed and did i mess up the diagnostic?
          Grounds all seem good, no connector failure anywhere....

          Well, its 5 AM here, and this issue isn't going to let me sleep.
          I'm going to try a hot water test to see the other variable which i predict will have a larger output gap than the 75 deg test.
          If thats the case and the hot test comes out with an overstepping WP sensor, i think ill pick one up tomorrow.

          Its the small things that get me sometimes

          Thanks guys!
          Attached Files
          -Alex
          1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
          ZO6 wheels (clones)
          LED exterior and interior lighting
          With questionable guts:
          Forged bottom end
          free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
          pacesetter longtubes
          T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
          Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
          K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
          96? ws6 hood
          96? ws6 spoiler
          full emissions delete
          polished heads with oversize valve job
          Edelbrock IAS shocks
          Full tubular Chassis minus k member
          Daily Driver and love it that way
          Motor is not what you'd think.

          Comment


          • #6
            You can't interpolate the temperature between the points in the R vs. T table linearly. It is not a linear function.
            Fred

            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

            Comment


            • #7
              right, i forgot to write that in last post, just changed it before you posted a return.
              So I got em on ice right now, and now they switched on me!
              The head temp is giving me a higher temp readout that the WP temp
              Head : 8630 ohms
              WP: 9110 ohms

              hmmm
              I think one of them is bad,
              they're acting as if they have different thermistor qualities.
              Any ideas?
              -Alex
              1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
              ZO6 wheels (clones)
              LED exterior and interior lighting
              With questionable guts:
              Forged bottom end
              free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
              pacesetter longtubes
              T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
              Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
              K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
              96? ws6 hood
              96? ws6 spoiler
              full emissions delete
              polished heads with oversize valve job
              Edelbrock IAS shocks
              Full tubular Chassis minus k member
              Daily Driver and love it that way
              Motor is not what you'd think.

              Comment


              • #8
                Well, I found out with another diagnostic tonight that the sender to the dash is bad. I made a little harness adapter for hooking up the one wire to the connector for the two wire, and on the RT tool the temp on the one wire came up with about a 0% difference with the IAT at 48 deg. anything lower or higher the difference was anywhere between 5% and 40% at the extremes. plugging the regular two wire back in, there was less than a .05 deg difference in that than the IAT.
                Well i guess its better to spend 13 bucks than 16!

                Thanks for all the help Injuneer.
                -Alex
                1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
                ZO6 wheels (clones)
                LED exterior and interior lighting
                With questionable guts:
                Forged bottom end
                free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
                pacesetter longtubes
                T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
                Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
                K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
                96? ws6 hood
                96? ws6 spoiler
                full emissions delete
                polished heads with oversize valve job
                Edelbrock IAS shocks
                Full tubular Chassis minus k member
                Daily Driver and love it that way
                Motor is not what you'd think.

                Comment

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