To scan the OBDI 95 (with the OBDII connector) with a tech 1 or tech 2?
I haven't found anything except for that, given I only looked so hard so far....
-Alex
1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
ZO6 wheels (clones)
LED exterior and interior lighting
With questionable guts:
Forged bottom end
free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
pacesetter longtubes
T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
96? ws6 hood
96? ws6 spoiler
full emissions delete
polished heads with oversize valve job
Edelbrock IAS shocks
Full tubular Chassis minus k member
Daily Driver and love it that way
Motor is not what you'd think.
There are all kinds of scanners (Autoxray, Actron, etc.)out there that will work. You are not limited to the Tech.
Anything that will scan OBD-I will work (with the right adapter cable).
The only OBD-I scan software I would avoid would be the ancient DOS-based Diacom.
If you do use a hardware scanner, Shoebox also explains how to connect it to the 1995's OBD-II "style" 16-pin ALDL connector, if the scanner does not come with an adapter plug:
For real-time, bright LED display of about 20 PCM parameters, including trouble codes, consider the ScanMaster LT1, which only requires 12V power, ground and a single wire connection to the ALDL:
I couldn't seem to find that as an option on anything I have...
-Alex
1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
ZO6 wheels (clones)
LED exterior and interior lighting
With questionable guts:
Forged bottom end
free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
pacesetter longtubes
T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
96? ws6 hood
96? ws6 spoiler
full emissions delete
polished heads with oversize valve job
Edelbrock IAS shocks
Full tubular Chassis minus k member
Daily Driver and love it that way
Motor is not what you'd think.
Air bags, traction control, ABS, BCM are not integrated with the PCM. These systems are PCM only. I didn't realize you were asking about ABS codes. In that case, neither Shoebox's response or mine are correct. Ignore.
Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
My fault, missed that in the original message.
Any ideas now?
I really think its a wheel speed sensor, and even though I will be replacing both from wheel bearing assemblys soon, I want to make sure it isnt a problem otherwise(e.g., faulty ABS controller, faulty solenoid(s), and open circuit and anything of the matter).
Thanks guys!
-Alex
1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
ZO6 wheels (clones)
LED exterior and interior lighting
With questionable guts:
Forged bottom end
free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
pacesetter longtubes
T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
96? ws6 hood
96? ws6 spoiler
full emissions delete
polished heads with oversize valve job
Edelbrock IAS shocks
Full tubular Chassis minus k member
Daily Driver and love it that way
Motor is not what you'd think.
It takes a much more expensive scanner to get ABS codes. Most of the low dollar ones readily available don't to that. You may just want to get the codes read at a shop.
-Alex
1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
ZO6 wheels (clones)
LED exterior and interior lighting
With questionable guts:
Forged bottom end
free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
pacesetter longtubes
T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
96? ws6 hood
96? ws6 spoiler
full emissions delete
polished heads with oversize valve job
Edelbrock IAS shocks
Full tubular Chassis minus k member
Daily Driver and love it that way
Motor is not what you'd think.
I just saw an add for a "lower cost" code reader for the EBTCM module. About $250. It might have been Actron.... not sure. I'lll see if I can find the ad in my recent magazines. Not cheap, but a lot less expensive than a Tech-series unit.
Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
yea no kidding,
I'll probably need it in the future anyways, i mgiht get one.
-Alex
1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
ZO6 wheels (clones)
LED exterior and interior lighting
With questionable guts:
Forged bottom end
free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
pacesetter longtubes
T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
96? ws6 hood
96? ws6 spoiler
full emissions delete
polished heads with oversize valve job
Edelbrock IAS shocks
Full tubular Chassis minus k member
Daily Driver and love it that way
Motor is not what you'd think.
If you're OBD-I, there were some scanners that were dirt cheap that would read ABS codes, basically by causing the ABS light to blink in a certain pattern - which would tell you the code(s). It would do the same for engine codes, and where applicable, 4x4 codes. I know this because my FIL has one, and I've used it on my old '95 GMC. It's how I know I have a bad passenger front wheel speed sensor, but I really don't care because the bearing is just peachy. It also told me I have a questionable EGR valve, but for some reason that's a $100 item and I don't feel like dropping that on this truck.
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