How to start a cold engine after storage

[98 'Bird]

Hi, everyone. Can someone give me some advice on this?

My car is kept covered outside when I am away at school. Whenever I come home and take the car out I just start it up, let it warm it warm up, and go for a drive. I think this is fine because it never sits for more than a month at the most. BUT soon I will be coming home for my winter break and I don't like starting it in the cold after it's been sitting for a few weeks.

Is there anything practical I could do to help get oil to critical engine parts at start-up? How about disabling the ignition and cranking it for 10 seconds or so before starting? Would that help? Or should I just start it, let it idle a few minutes and take it for a long drive? The oil is clean and I use Mobil 1 10-30. What should I do? Thanks in advance.

[Al 96 Ram Air T/A]

The first thing I would do is stop using 10w-30. While it's fine, it's not as good as 5w-30 in the cold, so it'll take longer to lubricate. Better yet, get 0w-30. I time my yearly (I only put 1,500 miles or so a year on her) oil change to coincide with the beginning of winter. That way, the oil is freshest when it needs to work the hardest...cold starts in the winter.


Other than that, it's debatable if one should let the car idle, or if you should simply drive it. I've read studies that say it's best not to let it idle and warm up. Rather, you should start it up, and drive away, keeping the rpm's down until the temperature comes up. It would seem that this is contrary to logic, however, the car warms faster so wear, theoretically, is minimized with regards to time.

If you really want, you could always drain the oil, let it warm up in a warm environment, then put it back in before starting the car. At least then, the oil will flow better upon start up since the oil is already warmed up a bit. Personally, I would simply get 5 or 0 weight oil, as draining/refilling is a pain in the neck in the dead of winter.

[FTA1995]

Starter fluid, maybe an upper cylinder lube thats not lead based if you're worried about it.

I'd just start it up and let it run until it hits at least 170-180 deg.
You've got about MAYBE 3 full seconds then the oil is into pretty much everywhere it needs to be if its been sitting that long.

[ConElite]

Starter fluid

I dont think he is worried about fuel.


What I would recommend you do, And I know it sounds dumb coming from someone in So Cal. when the coldest it gets is the 40s and we for days.

But what you can do is pull the PCM fuse from the fuse box, Then crack it for about 5-10 seconds that way the oil gets to the top of the engine then just reinstall the fuse and you have ignition.

Drive it for about 5-10 miles at least and set her down.

the 5 or 0 weight would be a good idea if it does get that cold where you are.

[98 'Bird]

Thanks for your replies. And yes, I drive often enough so that bad fuel is not a concern.

For the oil, I understand that an oil such as 0w30 would have a lower viscosity rating in winter than that of 10w30, but I have always been hesitant to deviate from what the owner's manual recommends (10w30 for the V6 for temps > 0 deg F). My understanding has been that since 10w30 is recommended, ideally, the oil should have a viscosity rating of 10 (winter) when the oil is cold. Therefore, an oil that has a 0 or 5 rating at that same temperature (say 30F or whatever) might be *too* slippery to adhere to engine parts sufficiently. But please correct me if I'm wrong.

Winters here are cold but definitely not sub-0. That's pretty rare.

Thanks, Eddie. I'll consider the PCM fuse and if anyone else has any tips please let me know. But I can't move to So. Cal. haha

[Rob B (shoebox)]

It's the PCM IGN fuse you should remove. It will stop fuel and spark.

[98 'Bird]

It's the PCM IGN fuse you should remove. It will stop fuel and spark.

Is there a PCM and a PCM IGN fuse or are they the same?

Thanks.

[ConElite]

Is there a PCM and a PCM IGN fuse or are they the same?

Thanks.

From what I can remember on my car it shows PCM IGN. Ill go out and check during my break to make sure.

[Al 96 Ram Air T/A]

You've got nothing to worry about using the lower weights in the winter. Think of it this way - Nothing is worse on an engine than no oil at oil. So, even though the 0 and 5 weights are less than the manufacturer's recommended 10w-30, they will provide protection faster so they will flow to the top of the engine faster than the 10. So in essence, you've increased protection when it's needed most. Once the temp of the oil rises to say 60 degrees, it's back up to a 10 weight anyway. I believe the 30 corresponds to the weight of oil at 212 degrees F. A 0W oil is tested at -35°C, a 5W at -30°C and a 10W is tested at -25°C. However, the real-world ability of an oil to flow in the cold is diminished soon after put into service. So, the older the oil, the more viscous it will be in the winter from when it was new.


And I live in central NJ too. It frequently gets below 0°C (32°F). You're not thinking of the right scale. Sunday night it was 20°F, which is -7°C. We'll get an easy two dozen nights that it'll be 10 - 15°F (-12°C). So, yes, we won't see -35°C, but even at -12°C, 0 and 5w-30 will flow better.

Trust us...you'll be fine.

[98 'Bird]

And I live in central NJ too. It frequently gets below 0°C (32°F). You're not thinking of the right scale. Sunday night it was 20°F, which is -7°C. We'll get an easy two dozen nights that it'll be 10 - 15°F (-12°C). So, yes, we won't see -35°C, but even at -12°C, 0 and 5w-30 will flow better.

Trust us...you'll be fine.

Everything you're saying about the weights makes sence to me. But the Owner's Manual does indicate 0°F (-18°C). I just checked it. I just changed my oil 3 weeks ago for the winter. I drive ~2,000 mi a year. I like to do oil changes in November and May. For next winter I think I'll switch to the 5w30. Thanks for the advice, Al.

[98 'Bird]

The fuse trick worked great. I pulled out the PCM IGN fuse and started cranking. After about 10 seconds I had about 40 psi of oil register on the gauge. Then popped the fuse back in and the engine ran real nice and smooth at startup.

[Al 96 Ram Air T/A]

10 seconds is fine...just don't crank any longer. You don't want to burn up your starter either.