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Traction, wider street tires

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  • #16
    With my factory 245/50-16 GS-C's, the main time traction was a problem was a hard launch on the street (car had an M6 when it was new). I had to feather the clutch to keep it from blowing the tires away. Engine was pretty much stock, with a few bolt-ons. I was surprised that when I added the NOS dry nitrous kit (125 HP) it would not lose traction in 2nd gear when the nitrous hit. Obviously had a problem in 1st, but 2nd was not a problem.

    Also note that the section width is not the tread width. Tires with the same section width (e.g. "255") can have a range of tread widths varying by as much as 1". Some of the highest rated street tires for dry traction (Tire Rack user feedback) are often models with the narrow tread width. The compound, how well the radial layers keep the contact tread flat, and how well the sidewalls work to absorb shock and keep the tread flat are more important considerations.
    Fred

    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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    • #17
      Thanks everyone for the input.

      Fred, I think you're so right about the current tires I have - they just don't wear and I'll bet it's the compound. I'll see how the Firehawks do in the rear for now. It also looks like the Nittos are a pretty good buy because it's almost a street tire that's a drag radial.

      I have two Mustang guys at work, one with a modded blown Cobra, and the other with a modded blown Fox body. Both are in the 11s. Cool guys, but they think I'm in the high 12s to low 13s with my setup. They probably don't believe me that a 4100 lb Caprice with the same setup runs 11.9x@113. But if I don't have traction, there's no way I will be able to run 11s, or even mid 12s. One of these weekends, when I get the setup squared away, I'll follow them to the track and show what an N/A LT1 can do to blown Mustangs.

      Also, I wanted to add that I did have good traction with stock GSCs and the motor being completely stock. That was the only time I was able to pull 2.11 to 2.13 60' times. I have 3 passes on the current rear Dayton tires and they've been 2.3-2.4 60' times. That was on a bolt-on stock internal motor, but I just thought it was bad launches. It was probably the crappy tires.
      94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Injuneer
        Agreed.... the specific tire model (tread compound) is more important than the size. My 94 came from the factory with the 245 Goodyear GS-C's. Not a lot of traction problems. Went to the 17" wheels with the 275/40-17 (there is no 275/45-17 size) GS-C's and it hooked great on the street.

        With regard to running drag radials on the street, the Nitto's are the only ones you want to consider doing that with. The general relative ratings:

        Best drag traction:
        -M/T ET Street Radials
        -BFG Drag Radials
        -Nitto 555R Drag Radials

        Wet traction:
        -Nitto (decent)
        -BFG (not so good)
        -M/T (poor)

        And that's with the full "new", very thin tread. They wear rapidly, and as they wear become very prone to hydroplaning.

        The fact that your current tires have lasted 30,000 miles on the back, and have a "300" tread wear rating may indicate that they are a fairly hard tread compound, and that may be why they hook so poorly.


        this is true my good sir. sorry about that fred. lol
        94 V6 A4~~LT1 M6~~383 M6 13.1 @ 109 with a 2.1 60' Sold/Stripped
        94 Z28 383 A4 Sold
        75 Chevy~~~~ SOLD
        1992 Convertable RS 305/700r4 <<<Just a Beater
        GOT PSi?
        Good Cause Your Gonna Need It!!!

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        • #19
          Personally,
          I had some decent 245's for a while and roasted the hell out of them through 1st and a good section of 2nd.
          Bought some new wheels with 275 35 18's in the rear and 245 40 18's in the front. They're the newer tread type BFgoodrich TA/KDW's. They have much better traction than the summer 245's I had before, but they are terrible on launches. anything faster than 30 mph is great. But also take into consideration the temperaures the tires will be used in. These tires are pretty good, but when its below 50 degrees, its like riding on pencil erasers. rubber compound is the most important thing to consider with this.
          -Alex
          1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
          ZO6 wheels (clones)
          LED exterior and interior lighting
          With questionable guts:
          Forged bottom end
          free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
          pacesetter longtubes
          T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
          Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
          K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
          96? ws6 hood
          96? ws6 spoiler
          full emissions delete
          polished heads with oversize valve job
          Edelbrock IAS shocks
          Full tubular Chassis minus k member
          Daily Driver and love it that way
          Motor is not what you'd think.

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          • #20
            Yeah, that was the thing too - when I spun to 65 and gave up, it was around 7:30 am and about 45 degrees. So I'm sure that didn't help.

            I have been really considering the Nittos as my rear tire. At least my rear tire for the summer. The question is, I'd still like to have a spare set, maybe the current Dayton's I have. How long do tires last when storing? I might have them kept mounted on the wheels and just have the Nittos mounted on new wheels. That means I'll be switching back and forth and the Dayton's will probably last for 10+ years. I don't know if they dry rot or will crack after so many years, so I'm not sure if it's even worth to keep them?
            94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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