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  • Eibach Springs/SLP Cold Air

    I have a 98 3.8L v6 camaro and recently purchased Eibach Pro-kit springs to drop both the front and rear about 1.4 inches. However, I was quoted at local shops about $500 for installation. I know a fair amount about cars and was wondering how tough it is to do this on my own, what I would need to install the springs (compressor), and some obstacles I might run into.

    Also, I'm considering a SLP cold air induction, just looking for any reviews?

    Lastly, I took some measurements of the gap between the tire itself and the wheel well and discovered that I only have about 1.5" to give... Any comments/experiences? I have about 3 inches to the front axle and a cutout that also has about 3 inches clearance...

    THANKS!

  • #2
    Just an add on

    Any substitutes for the SLP induction? Looked around, but no manufacturers supply ANY type of induction for the 3.8!

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    • #3
      Install the rear coils yourself. I had mine installed inthe front WTH front end alighnment for $200. Shop around places.
      2000 Z28 SLP sub frames, J&M LCA's, KYB shocks, Waitforme tuning. Ported TB & intake 35/22 swaybars, Firehawk tires

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      • #4
        The fronts are easy as pie. THe hardest part is to compress the coil, then its all easy from there. An impact wrench is recommended for the top shock bolt due to it getting all rusted.

        All you need it the lid and K&N filter. If Im not mistaken about the Cold-air is the one that includes the Ram-air ducked that goes under by the radiator. I might be mistaken.
        Eddie
        2000 M6 Trans Am
        Tune+exhaust=344WHP

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        • #5
          Here ya go-both for V6's

          http://fasttoys.net/shop/product_inf...roducts_id=682

          http://fasttoys.net/shop/product_inf...products_id=28
          2000 Z28 SLP sub frames, J&M LCA's, KYB shocks, Waitforme tuning. Ported TB & intake 35/22 swaybars, Firehawk tires

          Comment


          • #6
            I have an online writeup on installing the Eibachs (or any other springs). You need a spring compressor, but you could also take the complete spring/shock assembly to a local shop to have them disassemble and reassemble it. I'm not sure I would describe this work as "easy as pie".

            Some cautions:

            Be sure to place a white line down the side of the spring/shock assembly, showing the orientation of the top seat, sping, and lower seat referenced to the bolt bar on the lower shock. If you don't reassemble with all those parts aligned, you aren't going to get the assembly back in the car.

            The top nut on the shock is often so badly rusted that you have to cut the shock shaft to break down the assembly. But, if you are getting lowering springs, you should also be getting new shocks, calibrated to the specific springs you selected.

            You may want to purchase new upper spring/shock mounts. The old ones will crack with age.

            http://www.injuneer.com/HALEibch.html

            Fred

            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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            • #7
              I hope you're saving money for the shocks


              Personally, I'm not a big fan of the Eibach kit, but too each his own.

              It takes a tuned shock to work with those springs. Most people are unhappy with the way the car handles afterward, because they skimp on the shocks. On our cars, the shocks is far and away the most important part of the suspension set-up.

              Check out Sam Strano's website. This guy is the expert on F-body suspensions. He's also available for advice, and will help to educate you on what works and what is a waste of time. I basically recreated his set-up (the same one he used to win multiple National autocrossing titles), and couldn't be happier. The car handles as good as any Corvette on the road now...well, good enough for me anyway. However, it's still complaint enough to use as a daily driver.

              I owe all of this because of Sam's advice...


              One last thing...I just noticed you're shooting for almost an inch and a half drop...good luck with that. It's going to be interesting watching you getting up and down inclines/driveways. I dropped mine 1/2 inch, and hit all the time. The nose on these cars is so long, it hits. You may also have issues with the exhaust bumping speedbumps and such. I'd really do my research before undertaking something like this...there are numerous horror stories from guys who learned too late.
              Al 96 Ram Air T/A
              Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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              • #8
                thanks

                Are all shocks more or less compatible with the eibachs? and which are best suited to handle these specific springs?

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                • #9
                  SLP bilstein shock? http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=20&ModelID=7

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                  • #10
                    do you guys think it would be easier to remove the stock spring/shock assembly as a whole, order and assemble both new springs and shocks and then attach to car? only wondering because its currently negative 20 outside and if i were to run into trouble i could just bring in the individual components rather than the car itself.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I don't know if the Bilstein shocks you are looking at are the same that came with my firehawk or not but.....I would personally find something else out there if you are going to DD this thing. However, they are great for autocross.
                      EDIT: And they aren't kidding about the "firm" part in their ad.

                      2002 Firehawk Sold

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                      • #12
                        To be honest with you, the Eibach kit doesn't work well with any off the shelf shock.

                        The SLP Bilstein is a poorly designed shock. It was made softer to be more compliant on the street. However, with springs like the Eibach, they are even worse. Not enough dampening...

                        Sam Strano has the ability to revalve shocks to better work with lowered cars.

                        However, and you may not want to hear this, you're better off selling the Eibachs and getting one of his packages. He has specifically designed a lowered spring/shock package that will blow you away, especially compared to the Eibach set up.

                        http://www.stranoparts.com/viewfeature.php?FeatureID=1

                        I'm a big believer of do it once...do it right.
                        Al 96 Ram Air T/A
                        Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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                        • #13
                          If you want an OEM type ride quality, you won't like eibachs. I would recommend Intrax.

                          here's what they look liked like on my 97 WS6.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by DM98Camaro
                            do you guys think it would be easier to remove the stock spring/shock assembly as a whole, order and assemble both new springs and shocks and then attach to car? only wondering because its currently negative 20 outside and if i were to run into trouble i could just bring in the individual components rather than the car itself.
                            As I already said in my response, you can remove the complete spring/shock assembly, and take it to a shop and have it broken down and reassembled. I also recommended that you buy a new upper seat. All you would need from your old assembly would be the upper dust cover/jounce bumper. Just remember to mark the alignment on the old assembly, to use as a model for the new assembly.

                            I don't know if the Bilstein shocks you are looking at are the same that came with my firehawk or not but.....
                            They are the same shocks, but Strano revalves them.

                            Be cautious in dealing with Sam. I sent someone on another site to Sam and somehow they got off on the wrong foot and I never heard the end of what an SOB Sam was.
                            Fred

                            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              The rear springs and shocks are trivial to replace, as long as you can get the car in the air far enough to let the rear suspension hang freely- little tip: To unload one side to remove the spring, push UP on the other side, the axle will pivot and the spring will drop out- another way to get some lowering in the rear is to remove the rubber spring isolators- you may want to wrap the top coil of the spring in heater hose-

                              The fronts are serious work, you will need to dis-assemble the front suspension, and, to remove the spring, you will need to borrow a spring compressor.

                              Listen to these guys about the shocks- there is quite a bit of experience here- and +1 on Sam Strano- he has successfully raced F-bodies and knows what works- anybody can sell you parts, but not everybody can sell you experience-

                              I also like the Fast Toys Ram air- if you don't do that at least cut out the bottom of your air box, below the air filter- even that free mod will make a noticeable difference-
                              2001 Z28 A4 - 160 deg t-stat, 3.42 gears, WS6 sway bars, rear springs and shocks, UMI SFC's, Torque Arm and STB, leather Firebird seats, Borla, SLP Y-pipe and lid, ZO6 cam and springs - 332 RWHP and 346 RWTQ, not bad for 'almost stock' - work in progress
                              "Black, the fastest color"

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