Replacing the belt tensioner . . . ?

[Red97v6Bird]

How much trouble am I looking at to replace the tensioner on my 97 V6? Stupid haynes doesn't say anything about it and the dealership wants $200 bucks to do it . . . from what I can see removing the alternator is required but beyond that I'm confused . . . anyone got any tips ?

P.S. I've done a search and found nothing helpful and I'm gonna have to replace the whole thing as well, not just the spring . . .

[Joe 1320]

Usually it's just a couple of bolts and most times doesn't require anything else to be removed.

[Red97v6Bird]

thats what I thought to until I looked at it . . . it looks like it's part of an assembly involving the power steering pump among other things . . .

[Rob B (shoebox)]

Just release the belt and then remove/install the new tensioner. It will probably take you longer to get the car up in the air and ready to work on, than change the thing.

[Gary94Formula]

What's wrong with the tensioner? Is the spring loose or is the bearing going in the pulley? If the bearing is going, I know on the FWD V6 you can just replace the pully, but it has left handed treads. The last time I did one the pully with a new bearing was about $20. Use lock-tite on the treads...

[3800_Firebird]

97 V6, a 3800 perhaps?

You need to remove the belt, remove the alternator, drain the coolant, remove the two quick-connect hoses that run coolant through the assembly, and then remove two or three (can't remember) bolts that hold the tensioner assembly to the front of the engine.

[formula_gramps]

97 V6, a 3800 perhaps?

You need to remove the belt, remove the alternator, drain the coolant, remove the two quick-connect hoses that run coolant through the assembly, and then remove two or three (can't remember) bolts that hold the tensioner assembly to the front of the engine.

That sounds like a real pain, just to change the tensioner.

Finally though, there's a procedure that's less of a PITA on the LT1 than it is on a six.....LOL

Well, changing the plugs and wires on an LT1 more than makes up for the tensioner being an easy swap!

[3800_Firebird]

That sounds like a real pain, just to change the tensioner.

No kidding. Though the tensioner on my Grand Am 4cyl is simpler, having it transversely close to the wheel housing probably makes it as difficult.

[Rob B (shoebox)]

Sorry, I was in LT1 mode. Haven't done one on a V6.

[lackomotorsportsllc]

Correct 96-up 3800 V6 93-95 3.4 V6

[Christopherrr]

Done it for my friend in his Camaro.

3800_Firebird is correct...you need to pick up coolant elbows that connect the tensioner to the engine. They re for the heater core inlet and return lines. They will break cause they're plastic and removing the tensioner will crack them.

[1slo_camaro]

Sorry, I was in LT1 mode. Haven't done one on a V6.

on my 94 v6 it was the same thing. you lift the car pop the belt use a 1/2 (i believe) pull two bolts and then replace and throw the belt back on lower the car and job is complete. im sure that the 3.8 isnt to much different

[1slo_camaro]

Done it for my friend in his Camaro.

3800_Firebird is correct...you need to pick up coolant elbows that connect the tensioner to the engine. They re for the heater core inlet and return lines. They will break cause they're plastic and removing the tensioner will crack them.

i stand corrected. i guess the 3.4 and 3.8 are different lol

[3800_Firebird]

i stand corrected. i guess the 3.4 and 3.8 are different lol

Yup.


BTW, The Haynes doesn't do justice to things like the belt tensioner. However, the 1996 F-body Service Manual I picked up does.

I've got to do that job soon, as my tensioner also seems lacking in tension.

[FTA1995]

Chilton helps.

Mine has saved my rear a few times...

You're really not kidding about the LTX tensioner, more time to lift and prep then to swap.