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  • #1

    O2 sensor question

    Okay so I'm replacing my O2 sensor next to the starter and my headers make it to where I have to use a 7/8 wrench instead of a socket. So I needed to cut the wires on the old sensor. Now I can't the old sensor off because I didn't let the engine get hot enough.
    Now I can't even start the car to get it hot enough. Will not having the O2 sensor hooked up at all cause the car not to turn over. It try's ,starts clicking repeatedly. Thanks ahead of time.

    cc 304 Cam, BBK Headers, Magnaflow exhaust, Eagle Crank, 1.6 Rocker Arms, Zoom Racing clutch, Pulley, Computer upgrade, Hurst short throw shifter,KNN filter
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  • #2
    Originally posted by 97WS6-Bird
    Okay so I'm replacing my O2 sensor next to the starter and my headers make it to where I have to use a 7/8 wrench instead of a socket. So I needed to cut the wires on the old sensor. Now I can't the old sensor off because I didn't let the engine get hot enough.
    Now I can't even start the car to get it hot enough. Will not having the O2 sensor hooked up at all cause the car not to turn over. It try's ,starts clicking repeatedly. Thanks ahead of time.

    "starts clicking repeatedly", is a sign of a low-battery.

    I hope you didn't cut before the weatherpack connector. They do not function well if the wiring has been 'spliced' back together.
    Most likely you cut next to the O2 sensor & this shouldn't be a problem tho.

    Try any products like WD-40 yet? (If so, again, be careful not to get any on the new unit.)


    See if you can either charge the battery, or jump-start it. But without the O2 connected, you'll most likely get a 'SES' light now if it does start.

    I guess if I were you, I'd keep trying with the box-end wrench.
    1) 2001 Pontiac Trans Am 10th Anniversary Firehawk
    2) 2005 Pontiac Bonneville GXP
    3) 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GTII
    4) 1986 Pontiac Fiero GT
    5) 1996 Chevrolet Blazer
    6) 1993 Harley-Davidson FXSTS Softail Springer

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    • #3
      If you use an "O2 sensor socket", you don't have had to cut the wires. Too late now.

      If you plan to reuse the sensor, do not spray an excessive amount of rust pentrant on the outside of the sensor. That can enter the housing and contaminate the outside surface of the zirconium thimble, which must be exposed to outside ambient air for the sensor to operate correctly. WD40 is not a good rust penetrant. Consider something like PB Blaster.

      There is a wire supplying +12V and a ground to the O2 sensor heater circuit. You may have shorted these togther when you cut the wires, and that may help pull the battery reserve down. There is a fuse in the circuit, and it should blow if the wires are shorted, so check all the components carefully.

      Other than the possible short on the 12V wire in the sensor harness, the cut wires should not prevent the engine from starting. Something is dragging down your battery.
      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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      • #4
        Okay thanks guys. I'll get some PB blaster and have my battery checked.
        I have a couple of O2 sensor sockets but neither would work because where the sensor is on the exhaust. The top of the sensor is almost touching the fender well. Also is this fuse that I probably blew attached to the wires down there, or is it in the fuse-box?

        cc 304 Cam, BBK Headers, Magnaflow exhaust, Eagle Crank, 1.6 Rocker Arms, Zoom Racing clutch, Pulley, Computer upgrade, Hurst short throw shifter,KNN filter

        Comment

        • #5
          The fuse is either in the panel at the end of the dash, or most likely in the convenience box under the hood on the drivers side fender. Shoebox's 95 wiring diagram shows it as #6 in the under hood box. But the exact fuse number and location changed over the year.
          Fred

          381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

          Comment

          • #6
            Use heat as well. Don't put the torch on the sensor...put it on the pipe around the sensor. You want the metal to expand, allowing you to break the sensor free. They come out pretty easy if you use heat and PB Blaster.

            As Fred said...WD-40 is not a rust penetrant...it's designed for "water displacement" (hence the WD).
            Al 96 Ram Air T/A
            Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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            • #7
              Just got back from the store. I bought PB blaster and the battery was discharged completely. It'll take 45 min. to charge so I came home. Should I wait to get the battery so I can get the exhaust hot or will that discharge my battery somehow. I don't have a torch, will a lighter work?

              cc 304 Cam, BBK Headers, Magnaflow exhaust, Eagle Crank, 1.6 Rocker Arms, Zoom Racing clutch, Pulley, Computer upgrade, Hurst short throw shifter,KNN filter

              Comment

              • #8
                You may need a special O2 sensor tool. It's made of hardened steel, it uses an offset attachment point for a half inch breaker bar and usually when combined with PBlaster it will free the most stubborn sensors without heat.

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                • #9
                  Personally, I don't like to heat the sensor by running the car. Sure, it gets the pipe hot, but it also makes it pretty easy to burn yourself.

                  I use PB blaster for a good half hour, respraying it every 5 - 10 minutes. If you don't have a propane torch, a lighter may get some heat into it, but probably not make much of a difference. The exhaust pipe is a pretty big heat sink, so it'll absorb most of the flame and dissipate it quickly.


                  You can pick up a can of propane and a simply regulator for less than $10 at any Home Depot...it's an invaluable tool for freeing rusted/stuck parts. For cast iron, I use MAPP. It get's much hotter...
                  Al 96 Ram Air T/A
                  Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Alright, the battery was toast and the fuse is still good.However I'm still having trouble getting the sensor off of there. I used PB blaster 3 times and waited for about 20 min. I then started the car and let it run for 2 min. and then tried and failed.
                    Is this special tool like a closed end wrench w/ offset or socket because I can barely get a wrench on it? In the mean time I'm going to Home Depot to get a torch. Thanks again for all you're help

                    cc 304 Cam, BBK Headers, Magnaflow exhaust, Eagle Crank, 1.6 Rocker Arms, Zoom Racing clutch, Pulley, Computer upgrade, Hurst short throw shifter,KNN filter

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      I'm happy to inform that I finally got it off there. I had to buy a crowsfoot
                      wrench to do it. The car runs a little better and no more SES light. Thanks guys for all your help.

                      cc 304 Cam, BBK Headers, Magnaflow exhaust, Eagle Crank, 1.6 Rocker Arms, Zoom Racing clutch, Pulley, Computer upgrade, Hurst short throw shifter,KNN filter

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