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  • Control Arm material

    Hey guys,

    I'm about to order a new set of lower control arms and I was wondering what the difference is between the chrome moly and the mild steel ones. Is it really worth paying like $40 more for the chrome moly ones? They are pretty much just for street use and the occasional track visit. Thank you!

    Sean
    1996 Trans Am M6 (T-Tops)
    Mods:
    "Race Ready" Rebuilt T56
    Pro 5.0 Shifter
    Crane 1.5rrs
    Comp high tech pushrods
    Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY
    SLP Loudmouth II
    SLP Cold air intake
    PCMforLess Tune + 160 thermostat
    UMI adjustable panhard
    UMI LCAs and relocation brackets

  • #2
    Originally posted by SeanC
    Hey guys,

    I'm about to order a new set of lower control arms and I was wondering what the difference is between the chrome moly and the mild steel ones. Is it really worth paying like $40 more for the chrome moly ones? They are pretty much just for street use and the occasional track visit. Thank you!

    Sean
    Weight is the biggest diff.. And the chrome moly will not rust after time.

    Comment


    • #3
      Would you say it is worth the extra money then? I'm on a really tight budget, but at the same time, dont want to skimp on parts.
      1996 Trans Am M6 (T-Tops)
      Mods:
      "Race Ready" Rebuilt T56
      Pro 5.0 Shifter
      Crane 1.5rrs
      Comp high tech pushrods
      Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY
      SLP Loudmouth II
      SLP Cold air intake
      PCMforLess Tune + 160 thermostat
      UMI adjustable panhard
      UMI LCAs and relocation brackets

      Comment


      • #4
        Not worth the extra cost, unless you are trying to squeeze the last ounce of weight out of the vehicle. The weight savings is very small. Chrome moly is also more difficult to weld, increasing the risk of a brittle fracture if the welding is not perfect. I wouldn't worry about rust. The quality products are protected by tough powder coatings.
        Fred

        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

        Comment


        • #5
          Thank you very much Njrextreme and injuneer, exactly what I wanted to know!
          1996 Trans Am M6 (T-Tops)
          Mods:
          "Race Ready" Rebuilt T56
          Pro 5.0 Shifter
          Crane 1.5rrs
          Comp high tech pushrods
          Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY
          SLP Loudmouth II
          SLP Cold air intake
          PCMforLess Tune + 160 thermostat
          UMI adjustable panhard
          UMI LCAs and relocation brackets

          Comment


          • #6
            Mild steel and call it a day.

            All my parts are mild.
            Eddie
            2000 M6 Trans Am
            Tune+exhaust=344WHP

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks Conelite. One more question...I was going to get the single adjustable dual-poly-bushing control arms...What made you get the single rod end? Just the fact that it helps cornering also? Do they make a lot of road noise? I want to keep my car performing well all around and I don't want my suspension to bind with the poly bushings, but at the same time, dont want a majorly clunky suspension. What do you think?
              1996 Trans Am M6 (T-Tops)
              Mods:
              "Race Ready" Rebuilt T56
              Pro 5.0 Shifter
              Crane 1.5rrs
              Comp high tech pushrods
              Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY
              SLP Loudmouth II
              SLP Cold air intake
              PCMforLess Tune + 160 thermostat
              UMI adjustable panhard
              UMI LCAs and relocation brackets

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by SeanC
                Thanks Conelite. One more question...I was going to get the single adjustable dual-poly-bushing control arms...What made you get the single rod end? Just the fact that it helps cornering also? Do they make a lot of road noise? I want to keep my car performing well all around and I don't want my suspension to bind with the poly bushings, but at the same time, dont want a majorly clunky suspension. What do you think?
                I wont Lie, My car has a rough ride. And The road noise is mild to high. The reason I got the Single Rod end LCA's is because I planned of Building this car for handling. The Single Adjustable rod ends allow the Axle to Articulate a little more (From my understanding). It also allows you to Slightly, Very slighty adjust the thrust angle since got Relocation brackets.

                Eddie
                2000 M6 Trans Am
                Tune+exhaust=344WHP

                Comment


                • #9
                  Alright...i'm going to go with the single rod end. I'm just really hoping my car isn't going to sound like its going to fall apart. Rough ride doesn't bother me so much, i'm kind of used to that aspect of these cars by now haha. I definitly want my car to have better handling, but I also want to take it to the strip now and then. I'm crossing my fingers i'm making the right choice...
                  1996 Trans Am M6 (T-Tops)
                  Mods:
                  "Race Ready" Rebuilt T56
                  Pro 5.0 Shifter
                  Crane 1.5rrs
                  Comp high tech pushrods
                  Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY
                  SLP Loudmouth II
                  SLP Cold air intake
                  PCMforLess Tune + 160 thermostat
                  UMI adjustable panhard
                  UMI LCAs and relocation brackets

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    There's a company making an LCA with a unique front spherical bushing, that is a combination of a steel ball riding in poly "cups" that hold the ball on each side. I'll see if I can find the link. Its been discussed on the "Suspension, Chassis and Brakes" forum of CamaroZ28.com.

                    I have spherical rod ends on both ends (plus spherical rod ends on the sway bar links and the torque arm), and I don't notice the harshness or noise... but the whole car has so loud it may be the noise just blends into the background.

                    Fred

                    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thank you very much Injuneer! I really appreciate all the help.

                      From what i've read, as long as you keep the rod end lubed well its not bad. I just dont want to be driving down the street and have my car creaking like there is something wrong with it....I mean, I want good performance, but at the same time, I find that slightly ridiculous if its really loud.

                      As of right now, its not really my daily driver, so i'm not that worried either way. I currently go to school and Philly, and there is no way I would ever bring my car here. During the summer i'll be driving it more, but I'm almost kind of thinking its about to turn into pretty much just a "toy". After this summer, I go to school year round
                      1996 Trans Am M6 (T-Tops)
                      Mods:
                      "Race Ready" Rebuilt T56
                      Pro 5.0 Shifter
                      Crane 1.5rrs
                      Comp high tech pushrods
                      Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY
                      SLP Loudmouth II
                      SLP Cold air intake
                      PCMforLess Tune + 160 thermostat
                      UMI adjustable panhard
                      UMI LCAs and relocation brackets

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Here's the links to the J&M LCA's. They have a poly/poly spherical arm:

                        http://www.hotpart.com/shop/index.ph...ct_detail&p=42

                        .... and a metal spherical/poly spherical arm:

                        http://www.hotpart.com/shop/index.ph...ct_detail&p=47
                        Fred

                        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thank you very much Injuneer! I am definitely considering them. I'm really impressed with that design. It gets me excited when I get introduced to new stuff, because that's really what I want to be doing one day when I graduate.

                          This is a little random, but I just wanted to comment on how helpful everyone here has been to me. I have had many problems and questions about my car since I purchased it, and you guys are always such a great help. I have been trying to learn as much as possible about how everything works, what goes wrong, etc, and everyone on this board has been such a crucial aspect in doing this. I am so glad I bought an F-body. They are amazing cars, but the people associated with them are even better. This is really a great place, thank you all!
                          1996 Trans Am M6 (T-Tops)
                          Mods:
                          "Race Ready" Rebuilt T56
                          Pro 5.0 Shifter
                          Crane 1.5rrs
                          Comp high tech pushrods
                          Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY
                          SLP Loudmouth II
                          SLP Cold air intake
                          PCMforLess Tune + 160 thermostat
                          UMI adjustable panhard
                          UMI LCAs and relocation brackets

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I use the aforementioned part from J&M. Works perfectly...no deflection and zero noise.

                            Al 96 Ram Air T/A
                            Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              If you plan on any kind of relaxed street cruising, Beware of rod ends on your control arms. A fair amount of road noise gets transmitted though the chassis that normally gets dampened by either rubber or poly bushings.

                              Comment

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