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  • Lt 1 Tune up

    Does anyone know if you have to remove the water pump on the LT 1 to replace the plug wire. I was quoted 1023.00 from a dealer to do the plugs and wires but the water pump is original and if it has to come off a new one should go on. 118kmiles. Original plugs and wires.

  • #2
    You do NOT have to pull the water pump to replace spark plugs and plug wires. The only reason to remove the water pump would be to replace the Optispark distributor. Some people may pull the alternator, but that's all you would have to do. Finding a friend who has very skinny arms and is double-jointed may help , but its really nothing you can't do yourself. Couple tricks that will help. Do a "search" for guidelines on replacing plugs and wires.

    Do NOT pay over $1,000 for that work. Do not buy the OEM parts from the dealer. You can get better plugs and wires for far less from our Supporting Vendors and other frequently recommended sources.

    DO IT YOURSELF.
    Fred

    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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    • #3
      plus, chicks dig scars!
      2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater

      old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD

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      • #4
        Jeff,

        Fred is right. You CAN do it yourself, and unless the opti is being replaced, you don't need to touch the water pump. Removing the alternator helps, and you can even unbolt the starter to get some more room if you have trouble getting your arms in there like I did. No big........

        A thousand bucks to change wires and plugs????? I know the LT1 is a PITA to work on, but that price is ridiculous. By any chance did this guy have an eye patch, and have a parrot perched on his shoulder?

        Anyways, Joe had written the definitive guide to changing out the plugs long ago, which I have copied down below. I had saved it to a text file. It's probably still on the forum somewhere. Follow this, and you can't go wrong insofar as the plugs are concerned.

        As to the wires, just take your time, and do one at a time. It's a real pain routing them around the block in those plastic guides but it can be done. Just keep telling yourself: "Hell there's only 8 of them.....". Also, while you're at it, if you still have those goofy "cans" on three of the plugs, replace them with nomex sleeves. Oftentimes when people do a tuneup on an LT1 they start to get an ignition miss. Those *$*%@#$ metal heat shields will actually conduct spark away from the plug and direct them to the block. With the money you are saving you can afford the sleeves. I think Advance Auto sells them for about 14 bucks for two.

        Just plan to spend the better part of a day doing this, and try to come up with some new cuss words to apply to the GM wizards (and their mothers), who designed this thing this way in the first place.

        Also, spoil yourself, and buy some really expensive beer in advance as a reward for when you finish. You'll need that! (trust me)

        Good luck!
        ========================================

        Joe's excellent procedure:


        Use a 3/8" ratchet with a 5/8" sparkplug socket. Go to Sears and get a 3/4" inch
        long 3/8" extension. I think it's like $3.99 for the extension. A 3" extension
        will help too in some places. Get some dielectric grease also for when you put
        the sparkplug wires back on. And last but not least, get some anti-seize for
        the sparkplug threads when you put the new ones back in.

        The plugs are numbered: I'm sure you may already known this.
        1-3-5-7 from the drivers side front to back.
        2-4-6-8 from the passenger side front to back.

        Unhook the battery. I know. I hit the positive lead on the alternator with the
        ratchet. Wasn't to pretty. But nothing got damaged. Cool spark show though.

        Number 1. Easy. Came right out.

        Number 3. Easy. Came right out.

        Number 5. Medium. Remove plastic cover over the steering linkage for more room.
        It just slides on. Came right out.

        Number 7. Skip for now.

        Number 2. Medium. Put the socket and extension on first. Then the ratchet. A
        little tricky but it can be done. This way you don't have to remove the
        alternator. Although moving the alternator really is no big deal.

        Number 4. Easy. Came right out.

        Number 6. Easy. Came right out.

        Jack the car up.

        Number 7. Easy. Can get to it from underneath.

        Number 8. Hardest. Not really, just move the starter out of the way. Unbolt the
        2 bolts and move it towards the front of the car resting on the engine cross
        piece. Don't even have to unhook it. (another reason for unhooking the
        battery). Able to reach it then, no problem. I tried from the top, but had to
        reach pretty far back. Made it hard to do.

        Hope this helps.
        '94 Firebird Formula, Lt1, 6 speed, all stock

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