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DTC 29, Output Driver EAS Code?

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  • DTC 29, Output Driver EAS Code?

    Anyone know what this is, I had a guy at Autozone pull it, its intermittent, when voltage seems to drop based on gauge some, it comes on, then goes out, if I cut the car off for a few minutes then start it back up, it's gone, I can't find any info online about this. Its a 94 TA btw

    Thanks for the help.

  • #2
    Wrong code description for a 94. That's for 93 and earlier. From Shoebox's list:

    http://shbox.com/1/Dtcs.htm

    DTC 29 = Secondary Air Injection (AIR) pump circuit

    The fuse is blown for the AIR pump. Code/SES comes on when you start the car, because that's the only time the electric AIR pump runs - just a couple minutes at startup to help the cat heat up faster. Pump turns off, SES light turns off.

    Replace fuse. If it continues to blow, unlpug the harness connector from the AIR pump, and then replace the fuse. AIR pump will no longer work, but it will no longer set a code and turn on the SES light.

    The pump gets rusty, and starts to sieze up, drawing excessive current. If you had a 95 or newer, there's a dealer recall for this problem, but not for the 94.
    Fred

    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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    • #3
      Drifter,

      I had the same problem on my '94 Formula a few years back. Didn't realize there had been a recall on it.

      If the problem persists you could eliminate the air pump as Fred suggested, but if that would violate your local emmissions testing, or you just want to continue having the pump work, there's another simple thing you could try.

      It seemed to me that the fuse was blowing the instant I started the car. In other words, the starting current for the motor was exceeding the rating of the fuse. Since most motors have a higher starting current than the current they draw once in operation, I wondered if I could solve the problem another way.

      Instead of a fuse, I placed a mini circuit breaker in the fuse slot of exactly the same rating as the fuse. It worked, and has been fine for about 3 or 4 years. Most breakers will be a little more forgiving of a momentary high starting current than a fuse would be. So apart from that surge at startup, the pump works normally.

      Give it try. The breakers are available at nearly all auto parts stores.

      By the way, below is a photo I used in a thread about A/C problems. In this case, ignore the relay the arrow is pointing to, and look down at the bottom right of the picture. See that little silver sucker there in the fuse block? That's the circuit breaker I'm talking about.

      '94 Firebird Formula, Lt1, 6 speed, all stock

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