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Clearcoat Coming off Driverside Quarter.

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  • Clearcoat Coming off Driverside Quarter.

    What should be done?


    1996 Firebird Formula

    | Magnaflow Catback | 17x9 Ws6 Rims | Ram Air Hood |

  • #2
    I've got a hood that has the exact same problem. It's been painted twice and ended up looking the same way twice.

    I'm eager to see what people tell you because I can't seem to get it corrected.

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    • #3
      Sanded down, prepped and painted with proper clearcoat. From then on, use Zaino to protect your paint.

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      • #4
        Joe, is this a common problem for the 4th Gen F-bodies? Mine has a lot of that clear coat junk on the hood and a patch on the front fenders.

        Are you saying that Zaino can help best?
        1997 Pontiac Grand Am, 216k+ miles and still moving fast
        2004 Pontiac Grand Am SCT, but 35k on the clock
        1983 Male Driver, driving Front Wheel Drive only, for now

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        • #5
          Originally posted by 3800_Firebird
          Joe, is this a common problem for the 4th Gen F-bodies? Mine has a lot of that clear coat junk on the hood and a patch on the front fenders.

          Are you saying that Zaino can help best?
          It's a common problem with alot of cars when the paint isn't properly maintained or is improperly applied. Zaino is not a wax, it's a polish and protectant with UV screening. Before some jerk ran me off the road, my 97WS6 had Zaino since just after delivery and 140K miles later still looked better than when I bought it. Zaino isn't as cheap as store bought brands, the benefit is that your paint will last.

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          • #6
            All my cars spend most of their time outside in the Colorado sun elevation ranging from 5,000ft to 9,000ft. I have zero clear-coat issues and I never used one drop of Zaino…not that it isn’t a good product. However, it is not the Holy Grail either. If you use 3M or any other professional product, it will take care of it just fine. Since I do my own auto-refinishing, I buy my products from the body shop supply stores. Lifting clear-coat is caused by a reaction of the clear to base, poor application, or it is damaged by sun/chemicals, etc in your region. There was a lot of experimentation in the late 80s and early 90s with base/clear to meet EPA requirements. A lot of bad paint/techniques were used by manufactures resulting in many clear coat failures. Now we are experimenting with water based finishes instead of solvent based finishes. It will be interesting to see how the water based stuff holds up. I haven’t had a chance to shoot it yet, but I will try it sometime on something I don’t care about.

            Anyhow, thirteen years on OEM paint is pretty good. The paint on my ’97 was garbage from the factory. It required a lot of color sanding to make it look decent…full of orange peal from the factory. It looked like monkeys did it.

            Wastedyrs If somebody painted your hood, and your paint lifted, it was done poorly. I’ve never had a clear-coat lift from something I did. Now, I use the sealer recommend by the product I am using, apply the sealer, base, and clear in the recommended time intervals, use the correct speed reducer for the conditions as well as color sand and buff within 24hrs after application….comes out perfect every time.
            '77 K5 rock-crawler project
            '79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
            '87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
            '94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
            '97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
            My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)

            I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
            Thomas Jefferson

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