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  • MAP sensor rubber gasket

    Anyone know a P/N or a place to find that little rubber seal that fits over the nipple of the MAP sensor and seats in the Intake manifold? Mine is folded over and may be the cause of my P0101 code. Orange sensor safe/ high heat RTV? or like 3/8" of rubber fuel line? any further suggestions?

    As far as the code goes: not a bad MAF, MAP, or either of their coresponding harnesses. The MAP stays at around 7-7.3" Hg regardless of driving conditions or even if the engine is running or off.

    Could an SFI system backfire through the intake bad enough to make an intake manifold gasket leak? (TB closed)
    -Ryan-


    1997 Pontiac Firerbird Formula LT1/T56
    2006 Pontiac G6 GTP, 3.9L V6, 6-spd

  • #2
    GM PART # 1635948 as listed on my Tech Page parts list.
    Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

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    • #3
      P0101 is for a problem with the air flow measurement on the MAF sensor. The MAF value does not fall within 25% the speed-density calculated mass air flow. And since the speed-density system is dependant primarily on the MAP and IAT sensors, a faulty MAP sensor will cause P0101.

      But the rest of your logic falls apart. If the MAP sensor is reading 7"Hg at all times, the problem is not caused by a leaky MAP sensor gasket. 7"Hg is an unachievalby high intake manifold vacuum level, possible only on closed throttle coast down. You should see 9.0-10.0"Hg MAP at idle and 26-30"Hg MAP at WOT (depending on the altitude where you live). If the sensor always reads 7"Hg, its a faulty sensor or the wiring or harness connector are shorted.

      A leaking gasket on the MAP sensor would cause the vacuum in the intake manifold to drop, which means the MAP would rise. MAP would not drop to 7"Hg.
      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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      • #4
        I had the same problem; just use a nice ring of RTV red or black around the opening, let it sit for about 10 minutes then throw the sensor back on. DONT start the motor until that stuff cures for about an hour or it'l get sucked into the opening and you'll have to start over plus then you have a big ball of silicone in the manifold.
        -Alex
        1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
        ZO6 wheels (clones)
        LED exterior and interior lighting
        With questionable guts:
        Forged bottom end
        free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
        pacesetter longtubes
        T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
        Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
        K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
        96? ws6 hood
        96? ws6 spoiler
        full emissions delete
        polished heads with oversize valve job
        Edelbrock IAS shocks
        Full tubular Chassis minus k member
        Daily Driver and love it that way
        Motor is not what you'd think.

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