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going to take the engine out of the 95 formula

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  • going to take the engine out of the 95 formula

    engine and transmission are coming out and going into a t/a body .
    going to remove it out the bottom
    any tips and ideeas are welcome please!
    93 t/a A4 3.23s
    95 Formula A4 2.73s >>>>93 t/a 3.23 , !AIR, !cat, !A/C, hotchkis lowering springs, kyb adj shocks, DD
    99 Camaro z28 a4, 2.73, !AIR, !A/C
    99 Alfa Romeo 166 3.0 v6, red
    97 3.8 v6 A4 camaro, hardtop
    93 Camaro Z28 M6, hotcam kit, 150 shot, twin plate clutch, eibach pro kit and bilstein shocks, swaybars etc
    00 audi a6 4.2 40 valve v8

  • #2
    Pull the intake and oil pressure sending unit off before you wheel it out... it will help with clearance... I'm guessing you're going to dismount the k member and trans mount with the wheel bearings/a arms still mounted and lift the body with a cherry picker? Do you already have everything planned out and organized?
    -Alex
    1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
    ZO6 wheels (clones)
    LED exterior and interior lighting
    With questionable guts:
    Forged bottom end
    free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
    pacesetter longtubes
    T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
    Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
    K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
    96? ws6 hood
    96? ws6 spoiler
    full emissions delete
    polished heads with oversize valve job
    Edelbrock IAS shocks
    Full tubular Chassis minus k member
    Daily Driver and love it that way
    Motor is not what you'd think.

    Comment


    • #3
      ok, all done , took more than 3 hours though lol
      engine and gearbox and driveshaft and all the front suspension and k member out the formula and into a t/a shell with a 3.23 diff.
      i m still putting back together everything as i ended up swapping the whole wiring and pretty much everything , dash , steering column so i d keep the same airbags system.
      any rust which was minimal under the car i sanded down and used galvanizing paint spray , i think it should be ok. also all the wiring checked and extra insulation where i thought was needed , all nice and tidy under the dash . i am going to use the racetronix upgraded wiring for the fuel pump and put the racetronix walbro lt1 pump in . i reluctantly cut the access trap door for the fuel pump , but i think the car needs that anyway .

      Anything i should know ? i wasnt sure about the propshaft, balancing and that i guess i ll see when i test drive it.
      And there is a thick insulated ground strap from the starer to somewhere, i couldnt find the place where it bolts to the chassis , if anyone has a picture or knows where it goes please let me know.

      The rear end on the t/a only has one central abs sensor and the wiring and everything in the formula were for a 4 channnel abs with traction control , i think both abs and tcs are lost now , till i can find a better tcs diff .
      93 t/a A4 3.23s
      95 Formula A4 2.73s >>>>93 t/a 3.23 , !AIR, !cat, !A/C, hotchkis lowering springs, kyb adj shocks, DD
      99 Camaro z28 a4, 2.73, !AIR, !A/C
      99 Alfa Romeo 166 3.0 v6, red
      97 3.8 v6 A4 camaro, hardtop
      93 Camaro Z28 M6, hotcam kit, 150 shot, twin plate clutch, eibach pro kit and bilstein shocks, swaybars etc
      00 audi a6 4.2 40 valve v8

      Comment


      • #4
        The starter should not need a ground strap. It is grounded to the block through the mounting. Never heard of a separate strap on one.
        Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

        Comment


        • #5
          i ll try and take a picture , i remember unbolting it , then realized i didnt need to , now i cant find where it was bolted to
          93 t/a A4 3.23s
          95 Formula A4 2.73s >>>>93 t/a 3.23 , !AIR, !cat, !A/C, hotchkis lowering springs, kyb adj shocks, DD
          99 Camaro z28 a4, 2.73, !AIR, !A/C
          99 Alfa Romeo 166 3.0 v6, red
          97 3.8 v6 A4 camaro, hardtop
          93 Camaro Z28 M6, hotcam kit, 150 shot, twin plate clutch, eibach pro kit and bilstein shocks, swaybars etc
          00 audi a6 4.2 40 valve v8

          Comment


          • #6
            ok, all good , apart for that big hole where the shifter was ( t/a was a manual , now auto in it)
            Even managed to get the abs to work on a 3 channel architecture . Swapped the abs ecus .

            The formula had an 2.73 diff gear ratio, and now in the t/a there is a 3.23 diff. i was wondering, is the pcm tune different , should i get it changed so it knows its a different gear ratio diff in there, or it uses rpm to work out shift points?
            93 t/a A4 3.23s
            95 Formula A4 2.73s >>>>93 t/a 3.23 , !AIR, !cat, !A/C, hotchkis lowering springs, kyb adj shocks, DD
            99 Camaro z28 a4, 2.73, !AIR, !A/C
            99 Alfa Romeo 166 3.0 v6, red
            97 3.8 v6 A4 camaro, hardtop
            93 Camaro Z28 M6, hotcam kit, 150 shot, twin plate clutch, eibach pro kit and bilstein shocks, swaybars etc
            00 audi a6 4.2 40 valve v8

            Comment


            • #7
              You will need a retune for it to shift correctly and the speedo to read correctly. Stock shifts are controlled by speed. If the speed is wrong, so will the shifts be.
              Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

              Comment


              • #8
                thanks, i have the hypertech programmer, i think now will be a good time to use it
                93 t/a A4 3.23s
                95 Formula A4 2.73s >>>>93 t/a 3.23 , !AIR, !cat, !A/C, hotchkis lowering springs, kyb adj shocks, DD
                99 Camaro z28 a4, 2.73, !AIR, !A/C
                99 Alfa Romeo 166 3.0 v6, red
                97 3.8 v6 A4 camaro, hardtop
                93 Camaro Z28 M6, hotcam kit, 150 shot, twin plate clutch, eibach pro kit and bilstein shocks, swaybars etc
                00 audi a6 4.2 40 valve v8

                Comment


                • #9
                  There is a small bolt with a black wire bolted to the block close to the starter. Make sure that is on there as well. Last weekend I drove my car around and parked it my garage. Went to start it again and it would not start. No lights or anything. Turns out there was a lot of curosion around that wire. I sprayed some electrical cleaner on it and it started right up.


                  LT4KM, 160' TS, MAF ends, TB-BP, GMPP 1.6 R/R, SLP CAI, LCA, Adj. tierod, BMR tower brace, 17x9"F/R, 275/40R17 GY F1 tires. WS6 Muffler, LS1 DS. 21mm rear sway bar. Soon to be LT4 heads, intake, & HOT cam

                  Comment

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