Pull the intake and oil pressure sending unit off before you wheel it out... it will help with clearance... I'm guessing you're going to dismount the k member and trans mount with the wheel bearings/a arms still mounted and lift the body with a cherry picker? Do you already have everything planned out and organized?
-Alex
1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
ZO6 wheels (clones)
LED exterior and interior lighting
With questionable guts:
Forged bottom end
free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
pacesetter longtubes
T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
96? ws6 hood
96? ws6 spoiler
full emissions delete
polished heads with oversize valve job
Edelbrock IAS shocks
Full tubular Chassis minus k member
Daily Driver and love it that way
Motor is not what you'd think.
ok, all done , took more than 3 hours though lol
engine and gearbox and driveshaft and all the front suspension and k member out the formula and into a t/a shell with a 3.23 diff.
i m still putting back together everything as i ended up swapping the whole wiring and pretty much everything , dash , steering column so i d keep the same airbags system.
any rust which was minimal under the car i sanded down and used galvanizing paint spray , i think it should be ok. also all the wiring checked and extra insulation where i thought was needed , all nice and tidy under the dash . i am going to use the racetronix upgraded wiring for the fuel pump and put the racetronix walbro lt1 pump in . i reluctantly cut the access trap door for the fuel pump , but i think the car needs that anyway .
Anything i should know ? i wasnt sure about the propshaft, balancing and that i guess i ll see when i test drive it.
And there is a thick insulated ground strap from the starer to somewhere, i couldnt find the place where it bolts to the chassis , if anyone has a picture or knows where it goes please let me know.
The rear end on the t/a only has one central abs sensor and the wiring and everything in the formula were for a 4 channnel abs with traction control , i think both abs and tcs are lost now , till i can find a better tcs diff .
ok, all good , apart for that big hole where the shifter was ( t/a was a manual , now auto in it)
Even managed to get the abs to work on a 3 channel architecture . Swapped the abs ecus .
The formula had an 2.73 diff gear ratio, and now in the t/a there is a 3.23 diff. i was wondering, is the pcm tune different , should i get it changed so it knows its a different gear ratio diff in there, or it uses rpm to work out shift points?
You will need a retune for it to shift correctly and the speedo to read correctly. Stock shifts are controlled by speed. If the speed is wrong, so will the shifts be.
There is a small bolt with a black wire bolted to the block close to the starter. Make sure that is on there as well. Last weekend I drove my car around and parked it my garage. Went to start it again and it would not start. No lights or anything. Turns out there was a lot of curosion around that wire. I sprayed some electrical cleaner on it and it started right up.
LT4KM, 160' TS, MAF ends, TB-BP, GMPP 1.6 R/R, SLP CAI, LCA, Adj. tierod, BMR tower brace, 17x9"F/R, 275/40R17 GY F1 tires. WS6 Muffler, LS1 DS. 21mm rear sway bar. Soon to be LT4 heads, intake, & HOT cam
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