Spohn A-arms are in!

[Craig 94 TA GT]

I have my weekend project ready. Ever since the Spohn k-member, I couldn't get the alignment right. I finally got Spohn a-arms to compliment them, with extra adjustability. These look great. Here are some weights, in case anyone was curious on the weight savings. All Spohn parts are mild steel.

Stock k-member: 40 lbs (I only heard this, didn't get a chance to weigh it)
Spohn k-member: 29 lbs

Stock a-arm (each): 13.5 lbs
Spohn a-arm (each): 10 lbs

DeCarbon shock (each): 5.5 lbs
Billstein shock (each): 5.5 lbs

Stock spring: 8 lbs
Moog replacement spring: 9.5 lbs

[FTA1995]

Very sexy.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

I completely agree, they look awesome. But doing the springs, shocks, a-arms...I am completely wiped out. It took all weekend and so much hard labor. I didn't realize our springs are encapsulated in the shock assembly/bushing assembly, so it took an extra xx hours to complete with the springs. It probably would have only taken a partial day to just do the a-arms.

Now I've gotta adjust the alignment because the wheels are facing inward with about a 2" toe! That's easily adjustable though, with the slotted holes in the k-member. I still can't believe how much work that involved though.

[Joe 1320]

I completely agree, they look awesome. But doing the springs, shocks, a-arms...I am completely wiped out. It took all weekend and so much hard labor. I didn't realize our springs are encapsulated in the shock assembly/bushing assembly, so it took an extra xx hours to complete with the springs. It probably would have only taken a partial day to just do the a-arms.

Now I've gotta adjust the alignment because the wheels are facing inward with about a 2" toe! That's easily adjustable though, with the slotted holes in the k-member. I still can't believe how much work that involved though.

When I complete my project's suspension, I'm going to use new shocks, mounts and springs so that I won't even have to disassemble the old parts. I would dread doing it the other way.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

I just edited the weights...looks like this project saved 6 lbs. And yeah, Joe, I agree - disassembling the old parts to get the mounts out was quite a bit of time too - I should have got new ones.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

I took the car into the local GM dealer, a Buick/Caddy dealer and they pretty much were like "whoa" when they saw the suspension. They seemed knowledgeable and I've having them do it, but it's going to take up to 3 hours they said, just to try to get it close. Oh well, I'd still rather pay them that than the local wheel shops with kid techs to do it.

So the customization is:
- stock replacements Moog springs, Billstein shocks (which shouldn't be a problem)
- Spohn k-member
- Spohn a-arms
- Spohn rear LCAs
- Adjustable panhard rod
- Moser 9" rear

I hope they can tweak it enough to get it close...I know the spherical rod ends on the a-arms are adjustable, but you can only do so much until they can't be fitted within the k-member slots anymore.

[DJ 95 Formula]

reviving

Hey there, sorry to revive an older post but I am curious how your alignment went and wanted to get your overall impression. I need to do some major front end work so I plan to buy the parts throughout the winter and do the job in the spring.

Thanks,
DJ

[Craig 94 TA GT]

The alignment went ok - they got everything within spec except for the right side camber. It's really close though. It still pulls to the right, which I hope fixing my thrust angle will fix.

The biggest problem: the bill. It turns out it took them 4.x hours to get right. I don't know if they were ripping me off, but they claimed to have to remove one a-arm and adjust the rod bushing to move it out. The cost ended up to be over $500. That really hurt.

As far as performance, I don't really know. It feels ok, but I didn't notice that much of a difference. Steve (ZYaLater) drove it though and said he noticed a huge improvement. The other difference (minute) is the weight savings, but it's so miniscule, I'm sure I won't notice anything at the track.

As far as driveability - it makes some noise. Turning the radio on will drown out the sound. However, even with a loud exhaust, you can hear "click click pop..." from the solid bushings. It gets annoying, but sometimes you get used to it. Spohn confirmed this to be normal noise. Also, for the ride, it isn't that much harsher, but you will definitely feel it over speed bumps. After a while, you don't notice much difference, but right after the install, you can feel the road a little more than before.

Are you going with the chromemoly or mild steel? Also going to try for the new Del-Sphere pivot joints?

[Joe 1320]

One thing for sure, I can't tolerate the clicks from solid bushings on a street car. Much will depend on the proper blend of streetability and rigidity. Probably Chrome Moly for less weight too.

[DJ 95 Formula]

need to research

I am just not sure at this point. I would like to research those del-sphere joints. Definitely interesting but I would want to find better write ups on what to expect. I want a nice solid daily driver/sleeper. So I want a comfortable ride, not a too rigid track star. I wonder what the life expectancy is of those joints.
Right now though I am getting way to much play in my steering. On most roads I have to fight the steering to stay straight. The wheels pull hard in the slightest of grooves. I think I need an alignment pretty bad. The thing is I don't want to spend money on an alignment when I visibly need new joints all around. Bushings are compacted and the rubber seals are completely compromised. I want to replace all that and then get an alignment but I like to try to change out to better components whenever I do anything. And tubular steel just looks so much nicer than formed steel.

I am not on my stock wheels either as I am on wider firehawk rims and tires all around.

DJ

[Craig 94 TA GT]

I agree with you Joe - at times, I don't have much toleration for the clicking and popping. It gets really annoying when I'm not in a good mood.

DJ, I have the same problem and I don't know if it will go away. I think it's partly inherent with these cars - it seems to wander all the time and really follows grooves. A couple times it scared me because I almost drifted into the next lane. I guess it has improved slightly since the a-arms, shocks and springs, but I think I need a new steering rack. I hear a huge pop when turning the wheel at low speeds. This was happening before the a-arms.

However, even my mom's new Lexus IS-250 wanders too. I think it's the nature of the wider tires? They're only 255 wide I think.

As far as wear, Spohn mentioned that their bushings on a DD can last up to 80k.

[Wild Willy]

Not so much the width of the tires as the low aspect ratio- 40-series, 45 series versus say a 60 series-

I noticed a lot more wander going to the 275/40-17's from the 245/50-16's I think the lower stiffer sidewall puts all the little irregularities of the road into the steering system-

[Al 96 Ram Air T/A]

Have you ever read the following article on vehicle alignment? One of the best out there:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...e.jsp?techid=4


What were the settings after the alignment? Are they different than OEM specifications? Could be one reason you are having issues with straight line tracking.


The following signifies 90% of the people who visit enthusiast boards like this:

"If you are an assertive driver who enjoys driving hard through the corners and expressway ramps, a performance alignment is appropriate for your car. A performance alignment consists of using the vehicle manufacturer's range of alignment specifications to maximize the tires' performance. A performance alignment calls for the manufacturer's maximum negative camber, maximum positive caster, and preferred toe settings. While remaining within the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations, these alignment settings will maximize tire performance."

[Joe 1320]

these alignment settings will maximize tire performance."[/I]

And unless the car is driven hard most of the time, the tire wear will not be uniform.

[DJ 95 Formula]

hmm

Good article, thanks for the link. Now to call around to see who could handle doing a performance alignment.

I have heard other fbody owners talk about the weaving and wobbling these cars do on some pavement. Maybe it is because of stepping up to the 17's over the stock 16's that used to be on it. It just seems so sensitive on most roadways I feel pull one way or the other. But.. there are those times when I am on a nice newly paved road and it feels nice, tight and nimble. I do still think my front end components all around are tired though. I did see that my drivers side lower ball joint is completely compromised, the boot is collapsed with dry cracks. I don't know what I am going to do yet, something needs to be done though.


DJ