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  • Motor mounts...

    From experience, whats the easiest and fastest way to swap them, such as swap in a set of poly mounts. Th best process I found so far is using a jack at the balancer with a wood block to unload the mounts, unbolting the main bolts that go through parallel to the engine, then removing the block to mount section for space to work. I've help people build their motors but never really did much as far as swapping in anything with a street mount.
    I really question putting any load on the balancer out of risk of either distorting the crank leader or dislodging the balancer or anything stupid that could happen from that.

    Thanks in advance guys.
    -Alex
    1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
    ZO6 wheels (clones)
    LED exterior and interior lighting
    With questionable guts:
    Forged bottom end
    free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
    pacesetter longtubes
    T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
    Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
    K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
    96? ws6 hood
    96? ws6 spoiler
    full emissions delete
    polished heads with oversize valve job
    Edelbrock IAS shocks
    Full tubular Chassis minus k member
    Daily Driver and love it that way
    Motor is not what you'd think.

  • #2
    The trick I used was I put my old calculus book under the oil pan and had a jack under that. On my LT1, it worked perfectly and was able to change the mounts without any damage. However, we tried it on Steve (Z ya later)'s Z28 and it slightly encaved the oil pan. We did use a different book, but we probably got different results because the oil pan is so delicate. I'm sure it's more delicate than putting a jack under the balancer though?
    94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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