ICM overheating fix
I've been having misfire related issues involving the cursed Ignition Control Module on the driver side head. I'm tired of looking, and spacing it off the head by bringing it outside the stud nuts just doesn't shave enough heat.
Everyone has heard of the ICM/Coil spacing technique, I used a different method ALONG with that and achieved astounding temp reduction of 45-50 degrees Fahrenheit
The ICM and upper bracket must be removed.
Get a roll of fiberglass header wrap or similar, shoot for 2 inch wide weave.
Cut a 5.5 inch long section of the fiberglass and fold it into three equal divisions.
Using an aluminum based thermal compound(that's what I used at least), cover the entire bottom of the ICM module, don't use too much. It won't hurt, but it can get pretty messy and cure time might be an issue with certain compounds.
Place the ICM back onto the upper plate and apply some pressure to get the extra compound out.
This is the important part, take your folded up section of fiberglass and place it so the it lays parallel to the closest coil face on the surface of the lower plate as close to the coil as possible.
Thread the ICM retaining bolts as little as possible; just enough to retain the ICM in position.
Cut a 1 inch long piece of the fiberglass and shimmy it in between the upper and lower mounting plates on the far side from the coil, underneath the ICM position.
Tighten the retaining bolts to spec, then trim the excess fiberglass away with a utility knife. This is not a necessity, but it cleans the assembly up.
Check your work; the main goal here is to isolate the transfer of heat on the upper plate only between the upper plate and ICM while retaining the assembly as a whole, the lower plate SHOULD NOT be touching any thing but fiberglass and the coil.
Not sure if anyone has tried this or something similar before, but it pretty much eliminated my ICM instability after a heat-soak cycle. Hope this helps solve the giant LTX puzzle of electrical gremlins
Everyone has heard of the ICM/Coil spacing technique, I used a different method ALONG with that and achieved astounding temp reduction of 45-50 degrees Fahrenheit
The ICM and upper bracket must be removed.
Get a roll of fiberglass header wrap or similar, shoot for 2 inch wide weave.
Cut a 5.5 inch long section of the fiberglass and fold it into three equal divisions.
Using an aluminum based thermal compound(that's what I used at least), cover the entire bottom of the ICM module, don't use too much. It won't hurt, but it can get pretty messy and cure time might be an issue with certain compounds.
Place the ICM back onto the upper plate and apply some pressure to get the extra compound out.
This is the important part, take your folded up section of fiberglass and place it so the it lays parallel to the closest coil face on the surface of the lower plate as close to the coil as possible.
Thread the ICM retaining bolts as little as possible; just enough to retain the ICM in position.
Cut a 1 inch long piece of the fiberglass and shimmy it in between the upper and lower mounting plates on the far side from the coil, underneath the ICM position.
Tighten the retaining bolts to spec, then trim the excess fiberglass away with a utility knife. This is not a necessity, but it cleans the assembly up.
Check your work; the main goal here is to isolate the transfer of heat on the upper plate only between the upper plate and ICM while retaining the assembly as a whole, the lower plate SHOULD NOT be touching any thing but fiberglass and the coil.
Not sure if anyone has tried this or something similar before, but it pretty much eliminated my ICM instability after a heat-soak cycle. Hope this helps solve the giant LTX puzzle of electrical gremlins
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