EDIT: You said 35 mph in 4th, do you have a 3.23 or 3.42 final drive?
-Alex
1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
ZO6 wheels (clones)
LED exterior and interior lighting
With questionable guts:
Forged bottom end
free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
pacesetter longtubes
T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
96? ws6 hood
96? ws6 spoiler
full emissions delete
polished heads with oversize valve job
Edelbrock IAS shocks
Full tubular Chassis minus k member
Daily Driver and love it that way
Motor is not what you'd think.
Generally in the lower range. Say 1800 or so cruising in 4th, all the way down to idle - i.e. when i'm slowly coming to a stop while in gear. In the case of coming to a stop it's once the engine is no long putting negative torque and it's just reached the point where the speed of the driveline and the speed of the engine idling become "even" if you will - just as i'm about to disengage the clutch.
The sound just seems less audible as I go up in speed/rpm but I can still hear it between 2 and 3k and under around 40 mph.
Originally posted by FTA1995
EDIT: You said 35 mph in 4th, do you have a 3.23 or 3.42 final drive?
Can't say for sure. I know it's not an LSD. I think it's a 3.08, maybe a 3.23.
Ahh ok... So you would say you feel like the car is bucking very mildly lower rpms after decelerating, then reapplying the throttle lightly will also give you another short set of bucks and noises right?
-Alex
1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
ZO6 wheels (clones)
LED exterior and interior lighting
With questionable guts:
Forged bottom end
free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
pacesetter longtubes
T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
96? ws6 hood
96? ws6 spoiler
full emissions delete
polished heads with oversize valve job
Edelbrock IAS shocks
Full tubular Chassis minus k member
Daily Driver and love it that way
Motor is not what you'd think.
Ahh ok... So you would say you feel like the car is bucking very mildly lower rpms after decelerating, then reapplying the throttle lightly will also give you another short set of bucks and noises right?
Yes, exactly. And it's clearly not engine buck, just one clunk each time. It's the noise.
I saw your edit, see ^. Thanks for your fast replies!
Approaching a stop (no gas of course) once the car slow down to idle speed it's a more rapid clunk-clunk-clunk. If i keep the clutch out and let it slightly bog the motor (from 1000 rpm idle to 800 or so) the clunking stops. It's when it's in between torque transitions.
Right, most likely its because of the slight variances in the computer system for their actual physical representations, giving a less-appropriate timing for a given load vs RPM -or- an improper amount of fuel to achieve the air fuel ratio desired by the computer. Another possibility is one or more broken springs in your clutch that would normally absorb the shock of this jumping around.
timely response always helps when a problem is nagging at you, don;t worry I know the feeling and this sounds a lot like a problem i've seen twice for different reasons.
Do you have an aftermarket or modified MAF? Do you have any sort of modifications of any kind to the engine electrical system?
-Alex
1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
ZO6 wheels (clones)
LED exterior and interior lighting
With questionable guts:
Forged bottom end
free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
pacesetter longtubes
T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
96? ws6 hood
96? ws6 spoiler
full emissions delete
polished heads with oversize valve job
Edelbrock IAS shocks
Full tubular Chassis minus k member
Daily Driver and love it that way
Motor is not what you'd think.
Right, most likely its because of the slight variances in the computer system for their actual physical representations, giving a less-appropriate timing for a given load vs RPM -or- an improper amount of fuel to achieve the air fuel ratio desired by the computer. Another possibility is one or more broken springs in your clutch that would normally absorb the shock of this jumping around.
timely response always helps when a problem is nagging at you, don;t worry I know the feeling and this sounds a lot like a problem i've seen twice for different reasons.
Do you have an aftermarket or modified MAF? Do you have any sort of modifications of any kind to the engine electrical system?
Everything is completely stock on this car. I don't think it's anything computer or A/F related. It's definitely mechanical but not the engine related. The idea of the clutch springs has crossed my mind. I don't know, however, if that would produce this noise, and I don't know of any other symptoms bad clutch springs might produce.
Ok, out of curiosity and risk of straying the topic, when was the last time you cleaned your MAF sensor? Also, can you pinpoint the position(s) of the noise(s) better while driving? You did try the 'bounce' method I mentioned earlier; I believe the "clunk" you heard was just the shifting of normal tolerances within the drivetrain, but that little extra tink could be something that isnt quite torqued down all the way slipping a little under load. If it is chassis related I still suspect the torque arm, it could also be either of the lower control arms, anything with a bushing trans back.
Driveline wise, check out those U joints, the clutch: broken spring(s) or maybe you could have a bad pilot bearing singing to you. Try and pinpoint the source of that extra noise if possible.
-Alex
1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
ZO6 wheels (clones)
LED exterior and interior lighting
With questionable guts:
Forged bottom end
free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
pacesetter longtubes
T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
96? ws6 hood
96? ws6 spoiler
full emissions delete
polished heads with oversize valve job
Edelbrock IAS shocks
Full tubular Chassis minus k member
Daily Driver and love it that way
Motor is not what you'd think.
Ok, out of curiosity and risk of straying the topic, when was the last time you cleaned your MAF sensor? Also, can you pinpoint the position(s) of the noise(s) better while driving? You did try the 'bounce' method I mentioned earlier; I believe the "clunk" you heard was just the shifting of normal tolerances within the drivetrain, but that little extra tink could be something that isnt quite torqued down all the way slipping a little under load. If it is chassis related I still suspect the torque arm, it could also be either of the lower control arms, anything with a bushing trans back.
Driveline wise, check out those U joints, the clutch: broken spring(s) or maybe you could have a bad pilot bearing singing to you. Try and pinpoint the source of that extra noise if possible.
I have never cleaned the MAF sensor. As for pinpointing the noises, driving gives me the same impression as the "bounce" test: clunk from the rear and tink/squeak from more up front. I agree with you on clunk = slop (normal?) in the diff and the tink is something else, e.g. torque arm. Thanks for talking with me.
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