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Driveline "tink" noise - anyone ever had this?

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  • #16
    What RPM are we talking about here?

    EDIT: You said 35 mph in 4th, do you have a 3.23 or 3.42 final drive?
    -Alex
    1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
    ZO6 wheels (clones)
    LED exterior and interior lighting
    With questionable guts:
    Forged bottom end
    free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
    pacesetter longtubes
    T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
    Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
    K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
    96? ws6 hood
    96? ws6 spoiler
    full emissions delete
    polished heads with oversize valve job
    Edelbrock IAS shocks
    Full tubular Chassis minus k member
    Daily Driver and love it that way
    Motor is not what you'd think.

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by FTA1995
      What RPM are we talking about here?
      Generally in the lower range. Say 1800 or so cruising in 4th, all the way down to idle - i.e. when i'm slowly coming to a stop while in gear. In the case of coming to a stop it's once the engine is no long putting negative torque and it's just reached the point where the speed of the driveline and the speed of the engine idling become "even" if you will - just as i'm about to disengage the clutch.

      The sound just seems less audible as I go up in speed/rpm but I can still hear it between 2 and 3k and under around 40 mph.

      Originally posted by FTA1995
      EDIT: You said 35 mph in 4th, do you have a 3.23 or 3.42 final drive?
      Can't say for sure. I know it's not an LSD. I think it's a 3.08, maybe a 3.23.
      Matt



      1998 Firebird 5-speed
      2005 Pontiac Sunfire 4-door 5-speed

      Comment


      • #18
        Ahh ok... So you would say you feel like the car is bucking very mildly lower rpms after decelerating, then reapplying the throttle lightly will also give you another short set of bucks and noises right?
        -Alex
        1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
        ZO6 wheels (clones)
        LED exterior and interior lighting
        With questionable guts:
        Forged bottom end
        free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
        pacesetter longtubes
        T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
        Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
        K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
        96? ws6 hood
        96? ws6 spoiler
        full emissions delete
        polished heads with oversize valve job
        Edelbrock IAS shocks
        Full tubular Chassis minus k member
        Daily Driver and love it that way
        Motor is not what you'd think.

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by FTA1995
          Ahh ok... So you would say you feel like the car is bucking very mildly lower rpms after decelerating, then reapplying the throttle lightly will also give you another short set of bucks and noises right?
          Yes, exactly. And it's clearly not engine buck, just one clunk each time. It's the noise.

          I saw your edit, see ^. Thanks for your fast replies!
          Matt



          1998 Firebird 5-speed
          2005 Pontiac Sunfire 4-door 5-speed

          Comment


          • #20
            Approaching a stop (no gas of course) once the car slow down to idle speed it's a more rapid clunk-clunk-clunk. If i keep the clutch out and let it slightly bog the motor (from 1000 rpm idle to 800 or so) the clunking stops. It's when it's in between torque transitions.
            Matt



            1998 Firebird 5-speed
            2005 Pontiac Sunfire 4-door 5-speed

            Comment


            • #21
              Right, most likely its because of the slight variances in the computer system for their actual physical representations, giving a less-appropriate timing for a given load vs RPM -or- an improper amount of fuel to achieve the air fuel ratio desired by the computer. Another possibility is one or more broken springs in your clutch that would normally absorb the shock of this jumping around.

              timely response always helps when a problem is nagging at you, don;t worry I know the feeling and this sounds a lot like a problem i've seen twice for different reasons.

              Do you have an aftermarket or modified MAF? Do you have any sort of modifications of any kind to the engine electrical system?
              -Alex
              1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
              ZO6 wheels (clones)
              LED exterior and interior lighting
              With questionable guts:
              Forged bottom end
              free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
              pacesetter longtubes
              T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
              Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
              K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
              96? ws6 hood
              96? ws6 spoiler
              full emissions delete
              polished heads with oversize valve job
              Edelbrock IAS shocks
              Full tubular Chassis minus k member
              Daily Driver and love it that way
              Motor is not what you'd think.

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by FTA1995
                Right, most likely its because of the slight variances in the computer system for their actual physical representations, giving a less-appropriate timing for a given load vs RPM -or- an improper amount of fuel to achieve the air fuel ratio desired by the computer. Another possibility is one or more broken springs in your clutch that would normally absorb the shock of this jumping around.

                timely response always helps when a problem is nagging at you, don;t worry I know the feeling and this sounds a lot like a problem i've seen twice for different reasons.

                Do you have an aftermarket or modified MAF? Do you have any sort of modifications of any kind to the engine electrical system?
                Everything is completely stock on this car. I don't think it's anything computer or A/F related. It's definitely mechanical but not the engine related. The idea of the clutch springs has crossed my mind. I don't know, however, if that would produce this noise, and I don't know of any other symptoms bad clutch springs might produce.
                Matt



                1998 Firebird 5-speed
                2005 Pontiac Sunfire 4-door 5-speed

                Comment


                • #23
                  Ok, out of curiosity and risk of straying the topic, when was the last time you cleaned your MAF sensor? Also, can you pinpoint the position(s) of the noise(s) better while driving? You did try the 'bounce' method I mentioned earlier; I believe the "clunk" you heard was just the shifting of normal tolerances within the drivetrain, but that little extra tink could be something that isnt quite torqued down all the way slipping a little under load. If it is chassis related I still suspect the torque arm, it could also be either of the lower control arms, anything with a bushing trans back.

                  Driveline wise, check out those U joints, the clutch: broken spring(s) or maybe you could have a bad pilot bearing singing to you. Try and pinpoint the source of that extra noise if possible.
                  -Alex
                  1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
                  ZO6 wheels (clones)
                  LED exterior and interior lighting
                  With questionable guts:
                  Forged bottom end
                  free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
                  pacesetter longtubes
                  T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
                  Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
                  K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
                  96? ws6 hood
                  96? ws6 spoiler
                  full emissions delete
                  polished heads with oversize valve job
                  Edelbrock IAS shocks
                  Full tubular Chassis minus k member
                  Daily Driver and love it that way
                  Motor is not what you'd think.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by FTA1995
                    Ok, out of curiosity and risk of straying the topic, when was the last time you cleaned your MAF sensor? Also, can you pinpoint the position(s) of the noise(s) better while driving? You did try the 'bounce' method I mentioned earlier; I believe the "clunk" you heard was just the shifting of normal tolerances within the drivetrain, but that little extra tink could be something that isnt quite torqued down all the way slipping a little under load. If it is chassis related I still suspect the torque arm, it could also be either of the lower control arms, anything with a bushing trans back.

                    Driveline wise, check out those U joints, the clutch: broken spring(s) or maybe you could have a bad pilot bearing singing to you. Try and pinpoint the source of that extra noise if possible.
                    I have never cleaned the MAF sensor. As for pinpointing the noises, driving gives me the same impression as the "bounce" test: clunk from the rear and tink/squeak from more up front. I agree with you on clunk = slop (normal?) in the diff and the tink is something else, e.g. torque arm. Thanks for talking with me.
                    Matt



                    1998 Firebird 5-speed
                    2005 Pontiac Sunfire 4-door 5-speed

                    Comment

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