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  • Trap door lid size?

    I'm going to do at trap door for the fuel pump on a '94 Firebird that is not at my house. I want to purchase a piece of sheet metal to cover the hole before I go to the car's location.

    What size should the lid be?

  • #2
    I cut about an 8 or 9 inch square hole, worked excellent, but this was with the fuel tank dropped down onto the rear axle for some added clearance.
    Be careful if you aren't dropping the tank at all so as to not accidentally cut into it, it and all of the important components on the fuel tank are less than an inch from the rear deck.
    -Alex
    1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
    ZO6 wheels (clones)
    LED exterior and interior lighting
    With questionable guts:
    Forged bottom end
    free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
    pacesetter longtubes
    T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
    Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
    K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
    96? ws6 hood
    96? ws6 spoiler
    full emissions delete
    polished heads with oversize valve job
    Edelbrock IAS shocks
    Full tubular Chassis minus k member
    Daily Driver and love it that way
    Motor is not what you'd think.

    Comment


    • #3
      I'm not cutting a square hole. I'll be cutting a suggested rectangle that provides 1" clearance from the left groove, 1-9/16" from the right groove, 1-1/2" from the the edge towards the front of the car & 9/16" from the rear per http://www.worldisround.com/articles/12533/photo14.html

      No dropping of the tank as I'll be using a Dremel. I'm aware of the clearance issues.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Revver
        I'm going to do at trap door for the fuel pump on a '94 Firebird that is not at my house. I want to purchase a piece of sheet metal to cover the hole before I go to the car's location.

        What size should the lid be?
        larger than the hole you cut.

        Sorry, couldn't resist. Go by the photo in the link inthe previous post. The cut is much quicker with a sheet metal cutting tool and an air hammer. Drill 4 holes and simply connect the dots. Takes less than 2 minutes vs an incredible amount of grinding with a dremel.

        Comment


        • #5
          No air power or air powered cutting tool at the car's location. Just electricity.

          Can someone provide the length & width measurements for the trap door lid? If so, what are they?

          If not, don't reply.

          Comment


          • #6
            http://www.cardomain.com/ride/348183/9
            Fred

            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Injuneer
              Almost exactly what I did, minus bending back the forward metal, but again i was able to do it a little cleaner since the tank was dropped a bit.
              -Alex
              1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
              ZO6 wheels (clones)
              LED exterior and interior lighting
              With questionable guts:
              Forged bottom end
              free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
              pacesetter longtubes
              T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
              Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
              K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
              96? ws6 hood
              96? ws6 spoiler
              full emissions delete
              polished heads with oversize valve job
              Edelbrock IAS shocks
              Full tubular Chassis minus k member
              Daily Driver and love it that way
              Motor is not what you'd think.

              Comment


              • #8
                Scaling the photo, the lid size might be 9" x 12" or slightly smaller.

                Comment


                • #9
                  If mine weren't at the paint shop, I would measure it. Nothing wrong with larger. In fact.... the larger, the better as the reason GM chose not to put in a hatch was to maintain a rear firewall in case of fire. Nothing wrong with putting a hatch in place that has a larger overlap.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    There's some good photos, stories, and maybe even some dimensions in this thread at CamaroZ28.com.

                    http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=619463
                    Fred

                    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                    Comment

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