Hi. I did a search, but didn't find an answer. I am replacing the front sockets of my 2000 Camaro since they are extremely fried, but still working. The new ones are AC Delco ones and there is a grease instruction sheet that says to use "a heavy napthentic base, heat resistant grease to connector". Any common brands of grease that have that? Should I just use bulb grease? The instructions go on to say "cover the terminal mating end completely with grease". Thanks for your replies.
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You want a grease that is non-conductive. Typically, you would use dielectric grease. That is about 10-15% SiO2, not sure if the balance of the material is naphthenic.
Dielectric grease is not applied to the conducting surfaces, since it is not a good conductor. It is intended to seal the rubber surfaces and prevent moisture from entering, and to prevent corrosion.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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So I can use dielectric grease for the seal, but I need to use something for the terminals. I guess a large amount of bulb grease? I did a search online, and didn't find any common greases that contain the grease mentioned on the sheet.1988 5.0 TBI Camaro 700R4 Transmission
2000 3.8 SFI Camaro 4L60E Transmission, K&N Air Filter, and Drill/Slotted Rotors all around.
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In my 60+ years, I've never heard of "bulb grease", but a "search" shows it is dielectric grease. You don't want to coat the conducting surfaces with it - it is a non-conductor.
http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05107-Di-E...2560905&sr=8-1
"Naphthinic" refers to a hydrocarbon that has been derived from naphthinic crude oil, rather than paraffinic crude oil.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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So what do you recommend? I assume without any, the terminals will fry over time like the current ones. I've used bulb grease in the past, and it does help only to prevent the bulb from sticking to the terminals. Thanks for your reply.1988 5.0 TBI Camaro 700R4 Transmission
2000 3.8 SFI Camaro 4L60E Transmission, K&N Air Filter, and Drill/Slotted Rotors all around.
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If it works on the conducting surfaces for you, use the dielectric grease. The friction of the contacts will probably scrape the coating off enough to allow electrical contact.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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97 Trans Am A4 more or less stock (Mods: WS6 Ram Air with Fernco & K&N, 12 disc CD changer, power antenna, SLP Fan Switch, LS1 Aluminum DS, Borla Cat back, McCord power plate, Spohn tower brace, Sirius, HID fog lights)
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Wow there seems to be a lot of different opinions on its use. I will try the "bulb grease" and see what happens over time. It can't be worse than what it already is. Thanks for all the replies!1988 5.0 TBI Camaro 700R4 Transmission
2000 3.8 SFI Camaro 4L60E Transmission, K&N Air Filter, and Drill/Slotted Rotors all around.
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