I used to have a 95 Z t-top with 17x9.5 OEM Corvette ZR-1 rims on all 4 corners. I loved the look and want to do it again on the car I currently have. I'd like to stick with the 9.5's all the way around because I do not wish to protrude beyond the fender lip. I believe I had 275/40 Eagle GSCs on the old car. I'd like to go with Firestone Firehawks this time because I hear so many good things about them here. Should I stick with the 275/40 size or is there a better way of doing this? Is the wheel clearance the same for a convertible vs the t-top in 1994?
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tabahrTags: None
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clearance is the same.
you can go with 285/40's if you want. the stones have a slightly narrower tread width...body width is the same though.
i run 285's in the back but 275's up front.
The Goldens: Reno and Rocky


2008 C6, M6, LS3, Corsa Extreme C/B, (it flys) & 2008 Yukon loaded (Titanic), 03 Ford Focus..everydaydriver.


Wolfdog Rescue Resources, Inc.:http://www.wrr-inc.org
Home Page: http://www.renokeo.com
sold: 97 Firehawk, 97 Comp T/A, 2005 GTO, 2008 Solstice GXP turbo.
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tabahr
Do you think the 285's would fit up front too?? I wouldnt mind a light rub at full turn angle. The car is not, and will not be lowered.Originally posted by wolfman
clearance is the same.
you can go with 285/40's if you want. the stones have a slightly narrower tread width...body width is the same though.
i run 285's in the back but 275's up front.
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yes..like Joe said.. they run.....fine. i dont rotate..thats the only reason i stayed with 275's...less work on the power steering pump....which in the 97 and pre models.....sucks!Originally posted by tabahr
Do you think the 285's would fit up front too?? I wouldnt mind a light rub at full turn angle. The car is not, and will not be lowered.
The Goldens: Reno and Rocky


2008 C6, M6, LS3, Corsa Extreme C/B, (it flys) & 2008 Yukon loaded (Titanic), 03 Ford Focus..everydaydriver.


Wolfdog Rescue Resources, Inc.:http://www.wrr-inc.org
Home Page: http://www.renokeo.com
sold: 97 Firehawk, 97 Comp T/A, 2005 GTO, 2008 Solstice GXP turbo.
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tabahr
Thanks for the help, guys. That is exactly the information I was looking for. Now I just need to get approval from "the boss"
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dont mean to steal your post here, but i thought it would be better than starting another thread. My 97 z is lowered 2". Can i put the 17 X 11's on the back and the 17 by 9.5's in the front. and what size tires would i use if i can?
-ken-~~~The Twisted One~~~
My 30th is gone but soon a new era will begin.
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That might be a problem Ken!
My car is lowered too, but I have the Eibach Pro Kit, which I believe only lowers the car about an inch and a half. I run the 17x9.5" up front and 17x11" in the back (55mm Offset). The only problem I have is minor fender lip rub in the rear, but can be easily fixed with a fender lip shaving (which I should do). Youre also gonna need an adjustable pan-hard bar to set the axle straight again and to minimize rub.1996 Arctic White Z28, A4, K&N CAI, TByrne MAF ends, BBK Twin-52mm TB, TB Bypass, SLP 1 3/4" Shorties, Richmond 3.42's, Dynomax Bullet Muffler W/Turn Down, BMR Adj. Panhard, EIBACH Pro-Kit, AFS ZR1 Wheels W/17x11" out back!

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I had my car lowered for a while. With the 17x9.5 56mm offset ZR1 replicas and 275/40-17 BFG KDW's in the front, and the front dropped 1.8", the tires would rub on the inner plastic fender liners on a hard bump or with the steering at full lock.
In the back, I was only down about 1". With 17x11 50mm offset ZR1 replicas, and 315/35-17's I didn't get any rubbing after I set it up right, but I did find it necessary to do a few things:
1. Pound the inner fenders
2. Cut the protruding corners off the jounce buper bracket. This isn't a "rubbing" issue, and you can get by without doing this. Just don't attempt to jack the body with the wheels at full drop, or you will catch the inside of the rim on the bracket.
3. Recenter the body over the axle, by moving it about 1/8" with an adjustable panhard rod.
4. For "insurance", roll the inside of the fender opening lip. I had a tool called "The Jimmy" for this, but you can accomplish pretty much the same thing by either grinding off the inside of the fender lip, or "rolling" it up, using a baseball bat between the tire and the body. The paint will crack though.
You will find a surprisingly large variation in how the 315's/17x11's fit on the 4th Gens. Some people claim they just bolt the 17x11's on, and drive away, no mod's at all. But I know mine required a lot of work.
The only time it would really "rub" was on a really hard shift, as the body squatted on the axle. Eventually, I raised the car back to stock ride height in the front, and the Eibach Drag Launch springs in the back actually raise it about 1/2" above stock, hence the huge space over the rear wheels, unless the 28" slicks are on it.
Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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