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What is wrong with my Clutch Pedal?

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  • What is wrong with my Clutch Pedal?

    My clutch pedal does not always return all the way to the top when it I let it out. It doesn't happen all the time just occasionally. I remember hearing about some folks having broken return springs but I am not sure where that spring might be located. I have checked the pedal attaching point under the dash and looked at my shop manuals too and see no mention of it. Is there a spring inside the hydraulic cylinder? If so can it be replaced if it is broken and what is involved?

    Before I start tearing things apart I am hoping someone can offer a little help on the possible cause of the problem. Thanks.

    Dave
    2000 Camaro SS..........6 speed triple black

  • #2
    There isn't a spring down there that I can remember.
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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    • #3
      The Factory Shop Manual does not show the spring(s). The Haynes manual, which has photos rather than illustrations, did show one. But that manual is also a generic manual for all 4th gens up to 2000.

      Anyways, I removed the panel below the dash so I could see things better. Chevrolet must have changed the spring set uo because now they have two smaller springs that are the "torsion" type rather than a single long one that shows in my Haynes manual. Neither one of them are broken. But it they had to be replaced I am not sure how one would even get in there to do it. So the mystery remains. I will have to continue to monitor it to see if it continues to happen. The car only has 30K miles so I doubt it is any kind of "wear" problem.

      BTW, I did check the hydraulic fluid level and it is OK as well.

      Dave
      2000 Camaro SS..........6 speed triple black

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      • #4
        didnt the LS1s have a problem with a clutch pedal and people did a drill mod. search LS1tech.com and see if that is your problem.
        2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater

        old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD

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        • #5
          If my mechanical memory is correct, I believe its going to be a combination of return spring pressure and hydraulic pressure coming back from the clutch assembly itself. If the clutch doesnt return to a fully closed position like it should be, then youll be retaining a lower pressure in the entire clutch hydraulic system. Just a theory, otherwise it could just be getting hung up on something. Have you figured out what conditions this happens during/from?
          -Alex
          1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
          ZO6 wheels (clones)
          LED exterior and interior lighting
          With questionable guts:
          Forged bottom end
          free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
          pacesetter longtubes
          T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
          Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
          K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
          96? ws6 hood
          96? ws6 spoiler
          full emissions delete
          polished heads with oversize valve job
          Edelbrock IAS shocks
          Full tubular Chassis minus k member
          Daily Driver and love it that way
          Motor is not what you'd think.

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          • #6
            As far as when this happens, right now the only common denominator seems to be it occurs only when the car is fully warmed up. Yesterday I didn't have the problem until I was putting the car in the garage. For the first time I could actually leave the pedal in the partially up position to examine things more closely. It didn't help me figure anything out unfortunately. Someone sent me this link which may explain the cause of the problem http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html My fluid has never been changed and is quite black. So my next step will be to change fluid and see if that helps.
            2000 Camaro SS..........6 speed triple black

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            • #7
              As Dave mentioned above. This is a very common problem especially amongst the Corvette group. Try flushing the fluid. That takes care of the problem about 7 times out of ten.
              LS15 Power! Another LSx engine coming soon.

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              • #8
                I'd be surprised if a fluid swapped fixed the problem.

                When you press the clutch, the slave pushes the tranny fork, which pulls the throwout bearing toward the driver, and pulls the fingers of the pressure plate, then when you release the pedal, the pressure plate fingers pull the throwout bearing back moving everything back where it's supposed to be at rest.

                It sounds to me like you may need a new clutch if you haven't replaced it yet.
                97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

                01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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                • #9
                  I emptied the reservoir and filled it with fresh fluid and proceeded to "mix" it with the old by depressing the clutch pedal 30 times as shown in the video in the link above. There was very little dirt in the fluid after the first time but just the same I repeated the procedure three more times. This did not fix the problem. I was trying to figure how to do a proper bleed and flush. My two shop manuals are of no use to me whatsoever since they don't tell you how to access the bleeder valve. I took this picture under the car where the hydraulic line goes into the bellhousing. I would assume the bleeder valve is in there somewhere but was wondering how one gets to it.



                  The only other problem I see developing is a hair line crack in the reservoir. There is no evidence of a fluid leak on the outside so for now I'll just keep an eye on it.



                  Incidentally the pedal stops on what I will call the final "detent" before it is all the way up. Even in this position I think the clutch is probably fully engaged. This "detent" can be felt if you were to push your pedal down just a bit to the point where you can feel where the pedal get hard. That is the point where mine stops when it sticks.

                  At any rate if anyone else has any other thoughts let me know.

                  Dave
                  2000 Camaro SS..........6 speed triple black

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                  • #10
                    There is no bleeding procedure for these clutches.
                    97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

                    01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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                    • #11
                      If it isn't the clutch kit itself, I would be tinkering with the pedal assembly.

                      My Conquest had this same problem and I ended up buying a slave rebuild kit and that took care of the problem. It just needed some new seals.

                      My clutch pedal had like 1" of free play. When I'd push it, it wouldn't engage for about an inch or 2, and on the way back up, it would stick in that spot for a second before coming all the way back up.

                      If it isn't a leak somewhere in the hydraulics then it's something in the kit.

                      I wouldn't waste anymore Trans fluid, that would not cause this. I don't see how it possibly could. ???
                      97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

                      01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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