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any mods needed adding 19 inch rims to a 95 camaro

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  • any mods needed adding 19 inch rims to a 95 camaro

    ???

  • #2
    Here's a question for you, why do you want big rims? Take this into account:

    The tires cost more.
    The wheels cost more.
    You will actually lose traction both laterally and straightline (straightline because there is not enough sidewall to flex to allow traction and laterally because you have to go narrower to avoid scrubbing).
    They look like butt-crack (but that is a personal opinion, although shared by about 99.9% of this board).

    The maximum you should go on an f-body and retain any sort of performance is 18's. Even those guys don't race their cars, because they don't make an 18" drag radial for an f-body and even if they did it wouldn't hook. When you go 18's and up you have to start playing with widths and offsets, and that is a battle.

    If you are looking for something different, get some aftermarket rims like I did. The selection isn't that big, but American Racing has wheels with the correct offset in several styles.
    "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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    • #3
      If you use the same outside diameter tire, and the same width/offset at the stocker came with, there is no change required. That would mean a 19x9" or 19x9.5" rim, with 50-55mm offset, and a 285/30-19 tire.

      But, as noted above - and some additional points:

      -poor ride quality
      -rims will be easilly damaged by potholes due to thin tire sidewall
      -rims more susceptible to curb damage
      -solid rear axle and super thin sidewalls not conducive to high cornering forces.
      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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      • #4
        a

        all valid points but take a look at this f-body and tell me you don't appreciate it?
        Attached Files

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        • #5
          Looks alright but I'd get the same rims in 18" Just easier, cheaper, etc and not much difference in look. Just MHO....Later

          96 Z28 A4, K&N CAI, 3.42 gears, Exhaust Cut Out. Best ET 14.02 -R.I.P. 95 Formula-

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          • #6
            Let me put it this way, using a sportbiker term:

            Function before style

            A sportbike is made to go fast in straight lines and corners, and generally getting from point A to point B in the shortest amount of time. An f-body is the same way, point A to point B. Putting big arse wheels slows you down, so you are putting style before function. Therefore, you are putting yourself in full ricer mode, because they look fast but are slow as hell. Kinda like a Harley, they look good but are slow as hell

            I could show you a pic of my car on 17's and you'd think they were 18's. 19's are about useless, as they are difficult to find tires for, and cost a ton of money. You could get 20's for less money nowadays, but then you go from a barely useable f-body (19's) to a completely non-functioning f-body (20's). You might as well put a Harley emblem on it and a Type R badge

            I'm trying to help you out. If you want to be able to get the most potential out of your car, stick with 17's, 18's at the most. You go any bigger than that, and you are wasting your money and your horsepower. And like I said before, if your quest is the eternal search to be different, go aftermarket.
            "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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            • #7
              If all you are interested in is "appearance", go ahead with the dub's you asked about earlier. If you like the look, that's all that matters.

              I think that you will find that 95% of the people prefer "performance" first and looks second. I personally do not like the "rubber band" look tires, and wheels/tires that slow the car down and make its handling worse.

              But then my interests lean in a totally different direction. I've had people tell me my car look ridiculous, but the wheels and tires I chose give it the performance I want.... Maybe its the "generation gap", because to me these cars are supposed to be "muscle cars".

              Fred

              381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

              Comment

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