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Driveshaft will not engage with output shaft

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  • Driveshaft will not engage with output shaft

    Just got my new t56, the output shaft is appropriately splined for the driveshaft yoke, but I can't get it in much past the seal before I hit a solid resistance. I think it's caused by the copper-ish looking bushing right behind the seal farther up along the output shaft. Any idea's? Would I be ok to sand the driveshaft yoke with some relatively high grit to clear the bushing?
    -Alex
    1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
    ZO6 wheels (clones)
    LED exterior and interior lighting
    With questionable guts:
    Forged bottom end
    free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
    pacesetter longtubes
    T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
    Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
    K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
    96? ws6 hood
    96? ws6 spoiler
    full emissions delete
    polished heads with oversize valve job
    Edelbrock IAS shocks
    Full tubular Chassis minus k member
    Daily Driver and love it that way
    Motor is not what you'd think.

  • #2
    Nothing? The yoke is about a 64th of an inch too large, if that.
    -Alex
    1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
    ZO6 wheels (clones)
    LED exterior and interior lighting
    With questionable guts:
    Forged bottom end
    free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
    pacesetter longtubes
    T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
    Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
    K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
    96? ws6 hood
    96? ws6 spoiler
    full emissions delete
    polished heads with oversize valve job
    Edelbrock IAS shocks
    Full tubular Chassis minus k member
    Daily Driver and love it that way
    Motor is not what you'd think.

    Comment


    • #3
      The yoke should be able to slide in and out with relative ease. This is needed to allow for differential and rear suspension movement and changes in pinion angle. Who rebuilt your transmission or is it brand new?

      Comment


      • #4
        It's new, just came back to repost; the yoke was warped (probably) into the thousandths, and after a few hours of resurfacing finally slipped past the bushing.

        Valid point with the sliding freeplay needed when the rear suspension compresses, that's why I didn't just jam the thing in there. Even if I did, the bushing type in there has rifling in it to pull any worn materials out.

        For reference too, when I started the yoke would hit the bushing and stop completely. Now it will fully engage like it's supposed to.

        Off to drop the trans for the 2nd time this month. Depending on the condition after I rebuild the old one, I will have either good components or a full trans to sell if anyone needs parts.

        Thanks Joe
        -Alex
        1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
        ZO6 wheels (clones)
        LED exterior and interior lighting
        With questionable guts:
        Forged bottom end
        free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
        pacesetter longtubes
        T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
        Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
        K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
        96? ws6 hood
        96? ws6 spoiler
        full emissions delete
        polished heads with oversize valve job
        Edelbrock IAS shocks
        Full tubular Chassis minus k member
        Daily Driver and love it that way
        Motor is not what you'd think.

        Comment

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