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Stock rear question

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  • Stock rear question

    I was just wondering what the common failure point is on the stock 10 bolt rears and can it be fixed or at least prolonged with a girdle diff cover or anything. I've seen people on here use them and wonder how effective they are. I kind of want to put drag radials on but I know that once i do the rear will go shortly after. I have been looking at aftermarket 12 bolts but don't have that kind of money right now.
    LOUD2000T/A
    '00 Trans Am M6, K&N filter, Airbox Lid, F.A.S.T. LS-X Intake, Stainlessworks offroad y-pipe, Loudmouth catback, Pro 5.0 shifter, Hypertech programming, 17" Torque Thrust II wheels, 12.97@113; '87 Monte Carlo SS; '91 Sonoma V6 4x4.

  • #2
    I'm guessing you have a bone stock rear? 3.42 ratio? Id say its not too bad for a 10 bolt as far as strength, but I wouldn't bs around if you need a lot of traction. Put simply, the stock rear is ok for the street, but for some serious launches/traction/getting-the-power-to-the-ground you'd probably be better off getting a 12 bolt with some $$$ into it; it's not worth building up a 7.5 inch 10 bolt since the pinions are of comparatively inferior strength to larger carrier sets. I have a *mostly* stock rear end, same as yours, thing takes a beating fine only because I don't get traction (with 11" BFgoodrich KDW's for reference) and don't ever need to launch on the street.
    -Alex
    1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
    ZO6 wheels (clones)
    LED exterior and interior lighting
    With questionable guts:
    Forged bottom end
    free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
    pacesetter longtubes
    T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
    Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
    K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
    96? ws6 hood
    96? ws6 spoiler
    full emissions delete
    polished heads with oversize valve job
    Edelbrock IAS shocks
    Full tubular Chassis minus k member
    Daily Driver and love it that way
    Motor is not what you'd think.

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    • #3
      A T/A cover with preload bolts will help keep the bearing cap from seperating. That's probably the weak point.

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      • #4
        Here's two articles showing how to spend $1,700 to beef up the stock 10-bolt. Conclusion - OK for an automatic up to 450HP. Not suitable for an M6.

        http://highperformancepontiac.automo...ild/index.html

        http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...ild/index.html
        Fred

        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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