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Rear End Re-Build

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  • Rear End Re-Build

    So at 69K miles my rear end is getting rebuilt! The pinion seal was leaking so after it was replaced by the transmission shop it began to howl. So I told them they over tightened the yolk which they said dthey torqued it to spec but never checked the pre-load. Well they tore the rear end apart and the ring and pinion have a 1/4 inch gouge on the top edge but the ring is perfect. I only drove the car 40 miles with the howling so there is no way it came from what they did. I talked to my father-in-law who rebuilds tractors and he confirmed the same thing that the gouge was there a long time ago. He said someone else had to of messed up the bearings and it found its own grove and never howled for me until it was done correctly and everything was placed back where it should be. So since they have it apart, I am getting all new seals and bearings and a new ring and pinion. This thing is gonna run smooth! LOL!!!! All for about $800. The other bad part is I didn't think about getting a 3.73 until it was too late. So I am still going to be running the 3.42's.

  • #2
    Originally posted by 94TAGT
    So at 69K miles my rear end is getting rebuilt! The pinion seal was leaking so after it was replaced by the transmission shop it began to howl. So I told them they over tightened the yolk which they said dthey torqued it to spec but never checked the pre-load. Well they tore the rear end apart and the ring and pinion have a 1/4 inch gouge on the top edge but the ring is perfect. I only drove the car 40 miles with the howling so there is no way it came from what they did. I talked to my father-in-law who rebuilds tractors and he confirmed the same thing that the gouge was there a long time ago. He said someone else had to of messed up the bearings and it found its own grove and never howled for me until it was done correctly and everything was placed back where it should be. So since they have it apart, I am getting all new seals and bearings and a new ring and pinion. This thing is gonna run smooth! LOL!!!! All for about $800. The other bad part is I didn't think about getting a 3.73 until it was too late. So I am still going to be running the 3.42's.
    Very typical. When my pinion seal was leaking and had it redone, the rear didn't last long as they didn't measure the pre-load.

    Don't feel bad about the 3.73s. Anything higher than 3.42s are hard to have them end up quiet.

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    • #3
      A rear end rebuild takes a very skilled hand. Even trained people mess up. It only takes one little thing and its over.

      When I got my car my carrier bearings were shot. Took my brother and I 8 hours laying on our back getting all the measurements right. Lasted me 50k miles of constant abuse! (I have a very heavy foot)
      Eddie
      2000 M6 Trans Am
      Tune+exhaust=344WHP

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      • #4
        Do it right...do it once.


        Ditch the crush sleeve and have them use a Ratech solid shim kit. Ditch the bearing cap bolts and use ARP studs. Finally, a bearing cap with integral preload studs to reinforce the caps is cheap insurance.

        I did this 12 years ago...and my rear is better than ever. It adds only a few bucks to the overall rebuild, and will keep the rear quiet.
        Al 96 Ram Air T/A
        Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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