Fuel pump?

[FlyerPoot]

Yesterday on the way to work, I was coming down a hill and about to stop when the car sputtered and died with no warning. Tried to get it to start, it would try to turn over but couldn't. A couple guys stopped and pushed it onto the shoulder. While I was for the tow truck I tried it again and it did start, but only ran for about 15 seconds, then started sputtering again, the whole front end was shaking, and it cut out.

It's at the shop now, they are saying it's probably a fuel pump but haven't run all the diagnostics yet.

If it is the fuel pump, what would be a reasonable cost to get it fixed? It's a 2001 V6 Camaro, the car in my profile.

[MN6WS6]

"Try to turn over" makes it sound like the engine was not physically turning over. A fuel pump failure means the engine spins like it always does, but it never fires off. Which better describes your particular situation?

If it does end up being the fuel pump, it's a big job to do it the way GM and Mitchell describe it. It requires unbolting part of the rearend, pulling the exhaust system, and dropping the gas tank. If you do have it done, make absoultely sure they use a GM/Delco/Delphi fuel pump, not some aftermarket crap available at a parts store.

By the way, most GM fuel pump failures are due to repetitively running the vehicle on a 1/4 tank or less of gas, as the gasoline is actually the coolant for the fuel pump. Later GM models all have a sump design where the fuel is actually pulled into a pool around the pump that way the pump is always submersed in fuel. My Astro van has this design, and the factory pump lasted 270,000 miles. The one in my 96 Firebird lasted about 60,000 miles because at that time I was unaware of the 1/4 tank rule.

[FlyerPoot]

Spins but never fires off is what I meant. If it's not the fuel pump I will be surprised. It's at the dealership, so I'm sure they will use GM parts. I just don't know any good mechanics around here to bother taking it anywhere else.

I usually fill up when the gauge shows 1/4 tank remaining. Mostly because it drops like a stone after it hits that mark (as I understand it, the tank is V shaped?). In the 9 years I've owned the car, I think the check fuel light has come on maybe 3 times. It's got 111,000 miles.

Side note, unrelated to fuel pumps....when the tow truck driver arrived, he looked at the car, then at me and asked "Is this your son's car?" Ummmmm....let's see, should I be offended that he thinks I'm old enough to have a son old enough to drive a car, or should I just be offended that he assumes a Camaro would only be driven by a guy? lol Then later he proceeds to tell me my car has a 2.8 V-6. Strike two. :P

[Joe 1320]

Replacing the fuel pump the factory way would mean removing the exhaust, unbolting the shocks and dropping the rear suspension down and out of the way. Remove the heat shield, finally drop the fuel tank to get to the fuel pump access hole. The proceedure is a PITA and quite costly at a stealership. Many of us cut an access panel in the floor of the rear shelf behind the seats. Then the pump R&R is a matter of minutes rather than 5 hours.




Once the access panel is cut, use a slightly larger piece of sheet metal and cover the access hole. You can rivet or bolt it in place plus use some sealer for an airtight cover. Once the carpet is back in place, nobody will ever know.

[raroZ28]

Cut the access hole and you're talking about a 20 minute job.

If you go with a Walbro pump it will be the best thing you ever did. Those things fail quite often, I'm on my 4th one since 2004 and with the access panel I can keep my sanity.

[Joe 1320]

Quickest way to tell if it is the pump is to turn on the car but do not start it. The instant the key is switched on, the fuel pump should run for several seconds to pressurized the fuel rail. If you don't hear the pump, then it's likely DOA.

Are we to assume that you won't be fixing this yourself? If not, I'm not sure what mechanic in the area would cut the hatch. I could make short work of the hatch in about 10 minutes using my air tools. It's simple...... drill 4 holes, one in each corner of the size of the panel. next is a sheetmetal cutting tool on my air hammer and in 3 minutes the hatch is done.

If the hatch modification is not done, expect to pay upwards of $700 or more for the stealership to swap pumps. Keep in mind that the fuel pump itself is roughly $120 give or take depending on what pump you choose. The rest is just labor involved in dropping everything mentioned as well as removing the tank. That's why the hatch mod is recommended. If I weren't on the road traveling over the next couple weeks, I could swing by and do it in minutes. Problem is that I wouldn't be in that direction until roughly the first week in October.

[FlyerPoot]

Hi Joe,

Unfortunately, yes, the stealership will be fixing it. Although I agree the hatch job would be a lot easier (and cheaper), I don't have those type of skills, or the tools. Wish I did, though. I should go to school and become a mechanic. Probably less stress than my current job!

The car is at the shop now, so I can't try to start it, but even so I have no idea what the fuel pump sounds like. Over the last couple of weeks, every once in a while I would hear a weird noise from the back of the car, sounded like a cow was dying....weird whining type noise. Could that have been the fuel pump?

I appreciate the offer to swing by, but I actually live in Tennessee now. Guess I should change that in my profile!

Thanks for the advice.

[Joe 1320]

Hi Joe,

Unfortunately, yes, the stealership will be fixing it. Although I agree the hatch job would be a lot easier (and cheaper), I don't have those type of skills, or the tools. Wish I did, though. I should go to school and become a mechanic. Probably less stress than my current job!

The car is at the shop now, so I can't try to start it, but even so I have no idea what the fuel pump sounds like. Over the last couple of weeks, every once in a while I would hear a weird noise from the back of the car, sounded like a cow was dying....weird whining type noise. Could that have been the fuel pump?

I appreciate the offer to swing by, but I actually live in Tennessee now. Guess I should change that in my profile!

Thanks for the advice.

Gotcha..... yeah, Tennessee is a bit out of the way. The noise from the rear like a cow near death is a reasonable sound that the pump was on it's last legs.

[Trash man]

you dont need air tools to do the job, ive done a few with just regular hand tools and a drill, just takes a few mins longer

[Aaron4TAMU]

I agree with the hatch panel job. I am far from a mechanic, but if my pump ever went out I would not hesitate to do this job. All I can recommend is to take your time and don't drill/cut too deep. But you know yourself better than any of us so if you don't think you can do this job then by all means, have the work done by someone else. I would recommend shopping around at mechanics shops in your area to see if anyone would do the access hole method, as it would save you a ton of money and would be there in the future if/when it goes out again.