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  • #16
    Just remember to keep the limitations of your weakest points, and don't wait to break something to upgrade it like me. Haha...

    As for flywheel work, most pro machinists will have a flywheel resurfacing machine. I didn't get mine rebalanced, just resurfaced to get rid of a few burns. The divots are what will get ya if they're deep. That's why I feel if you have a flywheel that needs to be rebalanced due to the amount of material removed, should just be replaced to begin with. I also did some homework... A gm master mech I know said the super light aluminum flywheels are trouble sometimes, the heavier (to reasonable extent) the better.

    Also, go to YouTube and look up some flywheel explosions, this can happen with a very high friction clutch, like a 6 puck, if you overload it with large power or speed differences. It's not likely, just interesting and topic related
    -Alex
    1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
    ZO6 wheels (clones)
    LED exterior and interior lighting
    With questionable guts:
    Forged bottom end
    free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
    pacesetter longtubes
    T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
    Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
    K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
    96? ws6 hood
    96? ws6 spoiler
    full emissions delete
    polished heads with oversize valve job
    Edelbrock IAS shocks
    Full tubular Chassis minus k member
    Daily Driver and love it that way
    Motor is not what you'd think.

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    • #17
      thanks guys.. you all have been great... I appreciate the information/help.
      97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
      In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

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      • #18
        Can't disagree on the super lightweight flywheel.

        However, to clarify, the RAM unit is lighter than OEM, but by no means one of the "super lightweights" out there. Additionally, it's made of billet, high grade aluminum, so for durability, it is at least as strong as the stocker. My reason for going this route was due to the inherent nature of the LT1 and my current use of the car.

        LT1's excel at very low, instantaneous torque, hence the reason why you'll hear LS1 guys feel the LT1 seems more powerful from a dead stop (although it's really negligible). Once moving, the LSx engine's take over and show their strengths.

        Since converting my focus from drag racing to autocrossing, I changed up the engine's "sweet spot". I have a Zexel Torsen rear with 4.10 gears, which further enhances my off the line capability. However, this can be problematic as traction is a nightmare. So, to work with the multiple exhaust changes, I've tuned the ECM to move the torque peak higher in the band, which helps with top end power. As a result, the lighter flywheel complimented the changes nicely, helping me to get off the line without spinning the tires, and allowing the engine to rev freely to red line. It's now easier to feather the clutch out of the hole for maximum acceleration, yet leave plenty in the mid to high band for passing power. It's almost the best of both worlds now.

        Eventually, I'll work the heads to take advantage of this, and increase the red line, once the parts can handle it. The flywheel will make even more sense once that happens.
        Al 96 Ram Air T/A
        Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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