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  • TA started pulling to one side...

    ok, first off, I noticed a bit of a tug to either side on some roads, I assumed that was just the wide tires and stiff as hell suspension I have just following the ruts in the road, but now my car pulls really hard left on *most* roads, but no about 30% of my daily route home, its totally fine. I tired this taking a different route a few times with no change. It seems like my car is randomly deciding to pull on me out of nowhere. All of my brakes are biting proportionately, calipers aren't hanging.

    When I installed my 3 pt sfc's about a year ago; the passenger side went in no problem, the drivers side needed about 150 pounds of pressure from below to get into place. The car has never been in an accident at the best of my knowledge. Could this be caused by bad front struts or something bent? I did not get an alignment with my new wheels 2 years ago, there was no problem after that...

    I am so tired of fixing this damn car, I'm starting to think about autocide

    Thanks again in advance guys
    -Alex
    1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
    ZO6 wheels (clones)
    LED exterior and interior lighting
    With questionable guts:
    Forged bottom end
    free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
    pacesetter longtubes
    T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
    Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
    K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
    96? ws6 hood
    96? ws6 spoiler
    full emissions delete
    polished heads with oversize valve job
    Edelbrock IAS shocks
    Full tubular Chassis minus k member
    Daily Driver and love it that way
    Motor is not what you'd think.

  • #2
    could be align, tire going bad , something bent, I suggest a 4 wheel ajignment, allthow no adjustment on rear unless you have adjustable lower control arms, ( if adjustable pan hard bar you may adjust the rear axle side to side) but even with no adjustment the rear thrust line should be checked and then the front adjusted to it. I SUGGEST having the car/align checked one time a year or at each 10 k miles, if only for safety, when I was working( retired last several years) I always tell my friends/customers,I was not worrey about a part falling off/wrecking their car/breaking their neck BUT I may driveing down the same road at the same time and I go not care to meet them in a wreck.
    good luck,Johnny

    PS: DID you have the subspition loaded when installing the 3 pt sfc's ? if not you may have the car twisted, which would make one side hard to install, but I do not think that is the problem

    click on my link below for more Alignment info

    Y2K SS (SLP #239)
    Black , T-tops, A4, NA, Race weigh 3747#
    Completly STOCK heads/bore/stroke/weight
    & NOTHING else ------is stock
    "NAW-NAW- just a Sunday goto meeting car, my best time is not in the 12's---- any more "
    http://www.jgruggles.com
    align info: I am NOT soliciting as I have retired

    Comment


    • #3
      I feel ya on the alignment...

      After getting my car on the lift late yesterday evening, I found there were some problems withthe driver side wheel bearing; somehow a chip of metal got in between the bearing plate and the bracket, fixed that, now it would seem that my tie rod ends are reaching their service life, the driver side is a bit loose. These two explain my symptoms, its been hard to tell since my entire front end is stock/ original, at first I just thought it seemed loose after doing all of my other chases mods, but the tie rods losin their snug fit is just enough to lose my toe in, consequently I get some random drifting on rutty roads. Going to replace some components then get an alignment.

      Next up after all the joints and a arm hardware is new coilovers, hopefully then I'll get the front end stiffness and response I am looking for.
      -Alex
      1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
      ZO6 wheels (clones)
      LED exterior and interior lighting
      With questionable guts:
      Forged bottom end
      free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
      pacesetter longtubes
      T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
      Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
      K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
      96? ws6 hood
      96? ws6 spoiler
      full emissions delete
      polished heads with oversize valve job
      Edelbrock IAS shocks
      Full tubular Chassis minus k member
      Daily Driver and love it that way
      Motor is not what you'd think.

      Comment


      • #4
        I came in here to post just that- wheel bearings or tire inflation. Glad you found it so quickly. Pretty minor repair-
        2001 Z28 A4 - 160 deg t-stat, 3.42 gears, WS6 sway bars, rear springs and shocks, UMI SFC's, Torque Arm and STB, leather Firebird seats, Borla, SLP Y-pipe and lid, ZO6 cam and springs - 332 RWHP and 346 RWTQ, not bad for 'almost stock' - work in progress
        "Black, the fastest color"

        Comment


        • #5
          Wasn't even thinking about it, the difference was measureable but not really visible if you weren't looking for it
          -Alex
          1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
          ZO6 wheels (clones)
          LED exterior and interior lighting
          With questionable guts:
          Forged bottom end
          free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
          pacesetter longtubes
          T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
          Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
          K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
          96? ws6 hood
          96? ws6 spoiler
          full emissions delete
          polished heads with oversize valve job
          Edelbrock IAS shocks
          Full tubular Chassis minus k member
          Daily Driver and love it that way
          Motor is not what you'd think.

          Comment

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