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  • pullys

    hey guys slp makes a few pully kits for the lt1 they have 34% crank and 15% alt $99.00 or 23% crank and 15% alt $150.00 now which 1 would be better or is it not worth it and would the same belt work

  • #2
    Don't waste your $ on pulleys.
    There are much better places to spend that money.

    What is it that you are trying to accomplish, performance wise with your car?
    My DD
    2015 Lexus GS350 FSport

    My toy

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    • #3
      Pulleys don't do as much on LT1s because the water pump is not belt driven. Plus, if you don't get the right combination, you can end up with charging issues. I agree that money is best spent elsewhere.
      Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

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      • #4
        i have a little of the car apart and some pullys off and was just wondering if there were any inexpensive mods i could do over the winter would like to get a few more hp and i do have a K&N intake and cat back exhaust also what does everyone use to tune the lt1 my friend has a cobalt ss and uses hp tuner and can hook it up to a computer to tune his self is there anything like this out there

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        • #5
          Agreed... the pullies are not worth it on the LT1.

          For 6HP, at next to "0" cost, take the coolant supply and return hoses off the bottom plate of the throttle body, and connect them together with a 3/8" hose barb. Be careful not to drip coolant on the Optispark distributor.

          Good choices for basic HP gains:
          -1.6X roller rockers
          -headers
          -a "tune", which requires a new chip to be burned in your 93. There is no hand-held tuner available.

          What trans do you have - 4-speed automatic ("A4") or 6-speed manual ("M6")? With the A4, 3.73 rear gears, with the M6, 4.10's. The automatic will perk up with a higher stall torque converter.

          Once you start increasing engine HP, you will have to make corresponding upgrades to the driveline and suspension.
          Fred

          381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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          • #6
            i have a a4 and i figured for $100-$200 it wouldnt hurt to ask

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            • #7
              The problem with the A4 and pullies is the low idle speed programmed by the factory for the A4 - 550rpm in gear/650rpm in neutral. Sitting at a light, with an U/D pulley, there is not enough alternator speed to keep the system charging adequately. I had an ASP 25% U/D crank, and 15% U/D alternator pulley, and even with the higher idle speed on the M6 (800rpm), the volt meter would head for the red sitting in traffic with the A/C on. If you have a high amp aftermarket stereo system its even worse. The last thing you want with electronic fuel injection is a weak charging system. When the volts are down, the fuel pump and the injectors suffer.
              Fred

              381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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