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  • Subframe Connectors

    Hi all,
    I know that this question has been asked before.
    I really need to know the opinion of what is the best SFC
    out there. It doesn't matter if it is bolt or weld on.
    I can get the bolt on and have it welded later. I just want
    to know for all you guys who have had there birds for a
    while what you think?
    I cannot lower my car because I have a deep dip into my garage
    and carport. I already scrape the plastic piece under the nose of
    the hawk. Any advice would be great.
    p.s. The boss (aka. wife) wants me to get the cheapest one out
    there. But I will deal with that part.

    Thanks,
    Adam H. 2002 T/A Firehawk #536
    Slp Bellows
    Slp Maf
    Slp Stb
    Bmr Tunnel Brace
    Bmr Tubular Lca's
    Sph. Adj. Panhard Rod
    Direct Flow Lid

  • #2
    I've always been told that the Kenny Brown double diamonds are the strongest ones you can get, but they are very heavy. BMR's tuck into the frame so they cause no ground clearance problems (as a matter of fact you can't even see them unless you get down on the ground and look up) so they would be best for your application in my opinion. If you do a lot of hard launches at the dragstrip or some serious road courses, get the double diamonds. If you are just an occasional racer, save yourself some money (and weight) and get the BMR's.
    "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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    • #3
      I don't think you need anything really exotic. I would classify the KBDD's as toward the "exotic" side..... maybe a bit of overkill, unless you are really into Auto-X.

      I've have very good results with simple tubes that connect the front and rear subframes.... mine were custom made by the guy that did my roll bar... but point is, they just tie the front and rear of the car together. I have also seen a set of fairly inexpensive MAC SFC's provide excellent support on a 30th SS convertible that eventually ran 1,125HP and ran 9.04@155 on a 3,900# race weight.... of course it had a full cage at that point. But even with a simple roll bar, and running in the low 10's with 850HP the MAC's did a good job. I would assume the BMR's are similar.

      If you are interested in moving toward the KBDD's, but without the weight, SLP sells what appears to be a light weight version of the KBDD's, for a reasonable price.
      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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      • #4
        KENNY BROWN

        I have the KBDD's on my Camaro SS Convertible and it handles like a dream. i've driven a coupe and it'll out handle the coupe anyday.

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        • #5
          I was considering subframe connectors, and a STB. So you guys really feel they make a noticable difference in handling? My car is lowered about 1 1/4" or so, so the BMR's would be the best choice due to that? Thanks....
          '00 Red T/A M6, ASCD Ram Air hood, WS-6 lower airbox, MTI Clear Lid, SLP Y-Pipe, Loudmouth, Eibach Pro-Kit, 17x9.5" Borbet Type "M" wheels.
          '05 Blue Yamaha YZF-R6

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          • #6
            No diff

            i made a mistake in my first post, i have the pro kit too.They made a world of difference on my convertible along with the STB. the KBDD's have no clearance problems. And i live in oregon which has to have the worst roads in the world by far. i have to say, they look badass when you look under the car. i actaully think my exhaust pipe in lower than the SFC's. good luck.

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