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Electrical Weirdness.

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  • Electrical Weirdness.

    So back in January with gas hovering around $4.00 a gallon and things breaking faster than I could fix them it just got to be too much for a daily driver and I sold the 97 Formula and bought a 02 V-6 Bird, but that’s a story for another time.

    I’ve had this weird issue since I first bought the car. When sitting at idle, for a split second the voltmeter will drop down to the 12 volt, yellow line level. It doesn’t stay there; it just drops for a fraction of a second. It is very intermittent. For instance my drive home from work in town traffic is about 30 minutes and it might do the drop about 2 or 3 times.

    Now a little history, when I first bought the car I started having fuel pump issues off the jump (the guy I bought it from ponied up to replace the pump). So at first I attributed the voltmeter weirdness to the fuel pump. New pump, same weirdness. So off I go and have the alternator checked, it’s good but marginal, so new alternator. New alternator, same weirdness. I’ve checked the battery terminals, they are clean and good. It only does this while stopped at a light and the RPM’s always stay steady at around 650. I’ve checked the brake lights and sockets, they are good. It might be my imagination but it seems a little worse on very hot days (In Florida there are a lot of them). Now today I noticed something I never noticed before, the fuel gauge needle fluctuates just the smallest bit. It’s almost imperceptible. A/C compressor is also brand new. When the voltage drops I can hear the A/C fan slow, so it’s a real voltage drop and not some funky gauge thing.
    I have no starting issues and this doesn’t seem to affect anything but it’s not right and I want to know what it is.

    Sorry for the long post but I wanted to cover everything that's been done to save everyone time going over things I've already done.

    Ok so you guys are the brightest bulbs in the pack when it comes to F-Bodies, any ideas?
    Tracy, 97 Formula, pretty much stock.

  • #2
    The only thing that comes to mind is an arcing ground. Have you checked ALL of the grounds? Not just the ground from the battery to the chassis...
    Al 96 Ram Air T/A
    Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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    • #3
      I had a bad rectifier and single open coil in my old alternator. Symptoms were very similar, except mine would continue to pulsate if there was anything greater than a light electrical draw on the system. I rebuilt it to generate 150 amps, never a problem since then (although everyone calls me for a jump now )
      -Alex
      1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
      ZO6 wheels (clones)
      LED exterior and interior lighting
      With questionable guts:
      Forged bottom end
      free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
      pacesetter longtubes
      T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
      Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
      K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
      96? ws6 hood
      96? ws6 spoiler
      full emissions delete
      polished heads with oversize valve job
      Edelbrock IAS shocks
      Full tubular Chassis minus k member
      Daily Driver and love it that way
      Motor is not what you'd think.

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