No start again

[Black97]

So far this week has not started well.

First the head light motor gear went, of course the one I already rotated by 180. So I ordered some brass gears.

Last night the AC gave out with a leak.

This evening tried to head home from work when the car would not crank and the security light came on. I already did the key fob bypass with the appropriate resistor. It's been working well for many months with no issues.

What could cause the security light to come on? Anything else I can disable or need to replace to not have that issues again. The headlights at time did not pop up anymore either, possible related?

Shoebox Rob mentioned this here in a different thread " Yes, you can "turn off" the need for the signal from the VATS to enable fuel for the engine to run, but you still have to physically bypass the Theft Deterrent Relay (TDR) to allow the starter to engage. If you currently have a Security light on, it won't make it go off."

Is this what's happening in my case and if so what to do?

Came across this site here. Would that save my problem?

http://newrockies.com/buy-from-me/

[Joe 1320]

when you turn the key, do you hear a "click" of a relay from under the hood?

[Black97]

I assume you mean when it does not start with the security light on? This morning it did not start but I did not listen for any clicking. Later I saw your question and I went to check and it actually started. Was able to drive it home. Not sure where to go form here but I don't want to be stranded again like this.

Also on the weekend it started to flick the headlights quickly up and down when locking or unlocking the car. I do not remember it doing that before. Is that normal. On top of it when the lights go back down now both lights grind at the end.....

[Joe 1320]

I assume you mean when it does not start with the security light on?

yes.

.

Also on the weekend it started to flick the headlights quickly up and down when locking or unlocking the car. I do not remember it doing that before. Is that normal. On top of it when the lights go back down now both lights grind at the end.....

time to replace the headlight gears if you have already flipped the gears 180º

[Black97]

Brass gears were ordered and will be installed this weekend hopefully. Now with the car running it's going to be hard troubleshooting until it happens again I would think.

As I questioned before, would this "gadget" here help me circumvent any future no start situation due to the security light / feature?

http://newrockies.com/buy-from-me/

[Joe 1320]

Brass gears were ordered and will be installed this weekend hopefully. Now with the car running it's going to be hard troubleshooting until it happens again I would think.

As I questioned before, would this "gadget" here help me circumvent any future no start situation due to the security light / feature?

http://newrockies.com/buy-from-me/

maybe someone else can chime in, I have never seen that module bypass before. It certainly looks like it makes sense by eliminating the entire factory circuit.

[Al 96 Ram Air T/A]

It might be totally unrelated, but have you checked the battery side-post bolts?

I was experiencing random electrical issues when I would start the car. Sometimes it would start, other times - havoc. I changed the battery, and it stopped for a week, then it was back.

What I discovered is the bolt threads were stripped. I did not have enough surface area on the negative post to allow the appropriate amperage to flow while starting. This burned out my starter, caused the headlights to act like they were possessed, and other really weird stuff. When I would crank the car, tiny arcs were being created. The ECM didn't like this at all.

Once I replaced both the positive and negative bolts, the problem stopped. I discovered this was a big reason GM stopped using side-post batteries. My neighbor (A GM mechanic) said he always would check the battery connection when he had a "phantom" electrical issue that couldn't be traced to anything else.

[Black97]

Are you talking about these one here?

[Al 96 Ram Air T/A]

Yes! I had a deep, dark arc spot on the ground. It seems to have been going on for a while.

My buddy (a GM mechanic) hates these, as they strip very easy, but still feel tight. It's a bad design, hence why cars have gone back to top mount batteries.

[Black97]

Thanks. Mine did not look bad but I replaced them anyway for $2.50. Just finished the brass gear replacement on the one head light motor. Very easy job. Will re-install it tomorrow and hook up the battery again.

Still haven't decided whether to buy this security bypass thingy.

If it runs again I think I get the AC fixed first.

[35th_camaro_ss]

I do see that you said you did the bypass, but sometimes the resistor can go bad...seems strange the security light to come on with the bypass, Ive not installed them, just throwing in an idea you might be able to easily check as you said you did the bypass.
Al

[Joe 1320]

wouldn't ya know it. Now my security light is on. I did the resistor mod, the light stays on. The kicker...... the car starts and runs fine. I disconnected the battery to clear whatever might be held into memory somewhere. I held my breath and turned the key. Security light is on, the car starts and runs.
This is rather odd.

[Joe 1320]

After some searching I came across the security light reset proceedure.
service manual procedure:Just turn the ignition key to "on" and leave alone for 10 minutes, then the security light goes off, then start the car. With the resistor in place the car starts and runs fine and the accursed light is off!

However, I found when recovering from VATS PassKey fault-enable mode the key needs to be on for 1 minute not 10. When I tested mine the first time I let it go for 30 seconds or so before shutting it down to reconsider. So bottom line, 10 minutes worked but alls you need is 1 minute.

[Black97]

Well I got tired of worrying about whether I get stranded again. Never researched the issue like you did Joe. So I bought the bypass and installed it.

Fairly simple to install, had to remove the cover below the glove box and pull the large plug from the BCM. Cut two wires and splice in two others.

Have not tried to cut the resister mod to see if it still works, was too hot in the garage that day.

Here's the module



What's inside



Wiring